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Agoraquest • View topic - Modding CD players, part 2

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View topic - Modding CD players, part 2

Modding CD players, part 2

This forum addresses questions on installation, configuration and troubleshooting you might encounter with your Sony MD/CD/SACD.

Moderator: jttar

by RickeyM » Sun Apr 17, 2005 9:02 pm

Thirty feet of wire from a seller on eBay. Once I put in that dedicated line for the audio system, the new power cords should be ready to "strut their stuff".
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by Maxxwire » Sun Apr 17, 2005 9:35 pm

I bet they will! I have 2 LAT AC-2 Silverfuse powercords that just killed the OEM powercords with molded plugs that they replaced.

What kind of wall outlets will you be using in your new dedicated line?

_Maxx
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by RickeyM » Mon Apr 18, 2005 8:56 pm

The outlets are Hubbel isolated ground Hospital Grade 20A-125V. Gotta love eBay.  You can find almost anything there.
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by Reinhart » Mon Apr 18, 2005 9:34 pm






On 2005-04-12 23:28, RickeyM wrote:
Do you have some additional Mods scheduled for this Sony player?

__Maxx

More Mods than time . When I figure out what caps to replace and what to bypass, I'll dive in there. I'll try some mechanical things first. Much deadening can be done on the plastic parts inside and the case sheet metal is downright flimsy, so that'll get attention too.
I've got an idea to make a wooden base to stiffen up the bottom plate so I can try some really tweaky stuff
Ever hear of "roller balls"?



One thing you can try to do is to use a good RF choke on the power cord of the CD player.

Perhaps THE primary problem with many CD players is the analogue stage.  You've changed out parts with better stuff and noticed improvements.  Replacing the electrolytics with poly caps in the analogue section will eliminate smearing, for one.

Another recommendation would be changing the opamps in the analogue section, if the player has any (a lot of real premium players use discrete transistorized elements while some real exotic works have used stuff like tube outputs, but most players will have opamps instead).  If your player uses something like Japan Radio 4560 dual operational amplifiers, you might be better off replacing them with something like Burr-Brown AD2604 or AD2134 op-amps. 

If your CD player uses Japan Radio 4558 opamps, then I'd seriously reconsider attempting modifying the player.  Something that uses a 4558 opamp is VERY old and may not give much of an improvement through modification due to the simple fact that the D/A and oversampling filter may be primitive compared to the newer stuff.  If the old CD player actually uses analogue brickwalls instead of an oversampling digital filter, don't bother with it and just get a newer player!

Anyways, some CD players have also used Texas Instruments NE5532 op-amps, which have been used with quite a few pro-audio stuff.  But, you can try to experiment with other op-amps and see what you like.  But, the use of sockets to do quick swap of opamps are not recommended.

You could even consider using an Analog Devices AD826 op-amp.  Some people swear by it, but you should keep in mind that this op-amp was designed for video.  For players that have only one dual-integrated op-amp (which was the case with my Marantz CD-3577), this might work pretty well.  But if the analogue output uses more than one opamp of this type in the analogue section (like my Sony CDP-X229ES and my Onkyo DX-C106), don't use the AD826.

The +/- voltages on power feeds to the chips from the player must not exceed the limits of the new opamps to prevent them from oscillating.  The power limits, as well as other information, can be obtained by the opamp's spec sheets.

You can get various opamps for free as samples from the manufacturers.  Simply place a request with the manufacturer at their website.

It is also likely that your player might be using muting transistors instead of relays.  The muting components are there to keep the line outs quiet when powering up the player.  It is possible to bypass the transistors and reduce coloration at the output, but you must remember to have the volume all the way down on the preamp or receiver to keep the powerup noise from being amplified (which can damage the speakers).

For resonance dampening, it is very important to find ways to reduce resonance.  But, not so much for the drive.  This is mainly a benefit on the analogue circuit. 

Reducing resonance on the CD drive itself beyond the conventional rubber dampers is kind of pointless unless you are talking about shock that will cause the player itself to skip during normal use.  A CD drive takes the read, which is not linear as the data is arranged in a block sector strategy, and it has to be decoded through 8-14 demodulation and error corrected before the data can be upsampled and then converted.  The demodulation and error correction typically employs a buffer, which is a simple and effective form of time-base correction.  This shows the cards of those bogus weights that you are supposed to place on top of the disc to control rotational speed to reduce "rotational instability."  CDs are not records, so they don't share some of the same problems.

This calls into question the perceived seriousness of perceived jitter and the use of superclocks in place of the conventional quartz oscillator unless the decoder, digital filter, and the converter are not linked to one clock (which is also a sign of a really old CD player).  If the stock clock is already unified to the decoder, converter, and upsampling filter (Sony calls this "Direct Digital Sync") and the power feeding to everything is already clean and stable, you may not need a superclock.

Of course, don't be fooled by other gimmicks, like blue LEDs shining on the side of the CD, sound improving creamrubs for the CDs, CD degaussers (aluminum and, in some special discs, gold used for the reflective substrate are not magnetic), degaussing discs for the player, and the infamous magic marker trick on the CD edges.

Plus, you do have to be aware of what may actually work and what may be, more or less, overkill.

The use of 12 gauge wiring for a CD player is really pointless.  

And, in the case of understanding of CD players (and reflective optical discs in general), I'm actually pretty experienced in this field.  - Reinhart
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by RickeyM » Mon Apr 18, 2005 10:54 pm

How do you tell a good RF choke from another? Is it a size thing? I've seen posts for everything from using chokes from either end of the PC, to both ends, to the ground wire only.
How do I tell which op-amps my player uses? Is there a labeling or coding to them?

"You can get various opamps for free as samples from the manufacturers."

 Freebies?!? I am so there.

As a speaker safety issue, I'd leave any muting transistors alone.

Twelve guage power wiring for a CD player may be pointless but I'll have some wire left over after the cords are made for my receiver & power amp, so, eh, what's the harm .
BTW, over at the Chris Venhaus website, he has a PC design using four 12ga. conductors (2-hot/2-neutral). Alot of people say it's the shizit. But hey, for some folks, too much is "just right".

Now for "gimmicky", how's this:
http://www.audiotweaks.com/tweaks/tweak_412.htm 
I've got to try this simply for the facts that
A. I have two copies of a few CD's so I can A/B compare.
B. The 'fridge's already on  and I have extra baggies so there's no "out of pocket"
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by Maxxwire » Mon Apr 18, 2005 11:36 pm

The Hospital grade Hubbel AC outlets sound like they will work great.



When do you expect the dedicated line will be installed?



__Maxx



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by RickeyM » Tue Apr 19, 2005 7:26 pm

I hope to have the dedicated line in by this comming weekend. I'm holding off further Mods to the CD changers until then.
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by Maxxwire » Wed Apr 20, 2005 11:17 am

You are wise to hold off until the dedicated line is installed. In my Digital front end I have discovered that the quality of the AC line current it uses is very important and has a profound influence on the overall sound of the Digital equipment.

__Maxx
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by RickeyM » Wed Apr 20, 2005 7:22 pm

I've been called many things but seldom "wise" .
 Actually at this point, "itching with anticipation" is more like it.
 
Now all I need to do is save up my "allowance",  sell off some surplus gear and snatch up a STR-GA3000ES before they're all gone .
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by Maxxwire » Wed Apr 20, 2005 9:37 pm

You don't want to miss out on getting a DA 3000ES because the next generation Digital Receivers start at $2,000.

Do you use any kind of AC line conditioning?

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