I've searched and read much here about this issue and have come to the conclusion that the odds are that I too need to replace the 2 chips (MCZ3001D) on the D-board as a first attempt to DIY repair this beast. Especially so with an estimate of $169 from a trusted shop I've used for 15+ years now.
All I need now is help locating the chips and perhaps some detailed tips getting the job done.
Thank you John for the two files (E28041743-topfailures.pdf & E28041743.htm), I do see both the IC's there.
How about some additional support getting the task done correctly, please. I'm all familiar with ESD precautions, so no worries there. But are there specific details? Like do I need to completely remove the d board first? If so, should all connectors be unplugged or do certain ones require cutting? Not being a tv tech, I don't really know what the right questions are. Are there special techniques to apply in getting the job done?
The ICs are clearly labeled on the D-Board so locating them shouldn't take you too long.
Removing the entire D-Board can be a problem because of an often difficult to disconnect wire that runs from the yoke-mounted C-Board to the Flyback (FBT). A better solution may be to rotate the D-Board up into its "Service Position". You shoud be able to do that without disconnecting the wire to the FBT.
When I repaired my KV-36XBR400, I slid the entire lower chassis out of the TV and I cut the FBT wire and spliced it back together to complete the repair.
Alll of these topics are covered extensively in this forum although it may take a lot of reading since everything is scattered in different threads.
But one of the best threads is the "XBR400 Dead!" thread:
Fact is I haven't even opened my KV32HS420 yet, am waiting till the MCZ3001DB chips arrive. Upon doing so, perhaps all this will make better sense to me. Thanks for narrowing down the search for with those two links but I see that they both quote the XBR models, please confirm whether or not it also applies to the HS model line like my KV32HS420.
Joined: Oct 20, 2009
From: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Posted: 2010-08-16 20:21
Bob and Selvan,
I used the advice and strategies and replaced the two mcz3001db ics on the D(large PCB) and my KV34HS510 has been working great for the past 8 months. Mine was flashing 4 then 5 and sometimes 7. Would not turn on - no audio or video. It was intermittent for a long while before failing completely.
Thanks for the info. What are those High Voltage regulators?
There's no way I coulda done it! Took the cover off, relaxed a couple harnesses, lifted and pulle out the plastic board with the DZ & AY boards screwed on and saw that both IC's solder ends were located directly in-line/above with some of the plastic the boards were screwed into.
Meaning to say that the only way I could access the solder was to unscrew and remove the DZ (or the DZ & the AY) board. Maybe I'm wrong but that to me looked like I had to disconnect all kinds of wires to free the board(s) up.
I put the chips in my TV, and it has worked great ever since. I got my chips for Ebay. The shipping took a long time, but the price was right. I put the sockets in, and got a spare set. Now if it ever goes out again, I wonít have to take the board all apart, I can just pop out the chip and plug in the new ones.
Here is a picture of the board and the chip location. I removed all the cables form the board except the red and white one form the capacitor. There was plenty of room with the cable on to turn the board over and work on it.
In this picture, you can see that I used sticky numbers to label all the cables I had to disconnect. I also took close up pictures before I started messing with it for future reference in case I needed it.
Also in this picture you can see two of the clips that hold the boards together. There are two more towards the front. This picture is towards the back of the board. I had a bit of a time trying to figure out how to remove them. You will have to pry them a bit, one side will swing up, it is hinged.
Getting the capacitor cable off the back of the TV picture tube was a bit worrisome too. I had to pull a bit hard, and was worried about breaking it. Once you get it unhooked, be sure to ground the capacitor so you donít get shocked. I did this by touching a piece of insulated wire to the capacitor wire, then touching the other end to the ground prong of a grounded receptacle.
Getting the cover off the TV and getting the board loose took more time than getting the old chips removed and the new ones installed. It looked a bit overwhelming, but once I took the dive, it wasnít to bad at all.
[ This message was edited by: CathyJ on 2011-02-20 00:41 ]
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