I've been reading through the threads discussing failure to powerup and the standby LED blinking (7 times in my case). The common cause is IC8002 and/or IC6502 (MCZ3001DB) failures, and to replace these with sockets and new ICs. For reference I have a KV40XBR800 purchased in December 2003. It failed once ~ 2006 and didn't powerup at all - no indication of power - and was fixed for free during the extended 5 year warranty (and unfortunately I don't know what they did). This time it's my problem and paying $550 for someone to come fix it makes no sense with current prices of new sets - so hopefully I can get it going.
I'm looking at where to buy the two MCZ3001DBs. So far I've only found them on E-Bay. I thought I had also found them at Tri-State Module but when I went back to the site it indicates they're not available. No problem buying them on E-Bay and they are relatively low cost assuming they fix my issue but I'd like to clarify two things :
1) Can someone point me to a data sheet on these? I guess not required but I'd like to know what they are. 2) Anyone know what the bottom number on the chip is? I suspect it's a date code and I'm alittle concerned with buying old parts. The chips in my set say "Shindengen MCZ3001DB B01139". The B01139 may be a date code? I'm not sure if I have to worry about shelf life though I know this can be an issue with memory chips.
Thanks for any input. This site has great information and has been very helpful.
I could really use some advise. I'm getting ready to desolder the two MCZ3001DBs. I think there are solder bridges (or small wires) off pins 2, 5, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 18. I can't really tell if the on off pin 9 is a board etching or a wire. I could ohm it out if that won't create any problem. This is IC6501
Similarly on IC8002 with pins 4, 5, 9, (10 and 18 seem to be solder bridges) :
I downloaded a schematic and it's close but not matching exactly so maybe a rev level or maybe my eyes decieve me.
Is there anything special related to soldering these small connections? Can anyone confirm if pin 9 really has a connection or not. Since some of these are surface mount components (eg. resistor between 4&5 above) I'm hesitating to desolder.
Thanks for the tips on this problem and fix. My KV40XBR800 exhibited the same symptoms at power-up (usually 7 blinks, occasionally 6 blinks) and replacement of the two MCZ3001D chips (at $7/each) fixed the problem. Without this information the point-of-failure would have otherwise been difficult to determine, after the high-voltage section shuts down. And this was an easy fix-- easier even than swapping out the entire D-board (at $200), given the re-wiring/re-calibration of the FBT etc. required by that alternative. Thanks again!
I bought (4) MCZ3001DB chips + sockets for ~ $20 on Ebay. Two were used for the repair this past March and two are ready for the next time. The seller on Ebay was expressparts and I had no issues - parts came on time, were well packaged, and worked. I just did a search for MCZ3001DB and they are still available from same seller. Good luck. If you want to send me a private message with your email I'll send you some notes from the repair.
THANKS to everyone here in this forum, I got my TV fixed!!!
I have a Sony KV-32HS500. Problem was no picture/sound...the standby light would blink either 6 (or 7, I can't remember anymore) times, pause, and then repeat. I'm thinking it was 7 but I'm not 100% sure on that.
I ordered the parts from eBay user "may139188" for $11.99 (free shipping). The package came with two MCZ3001DB chips and two 18 pin sockets. It arrived pretty quickly considering it was coming from China.
I turned the TV over so the screen would be facing the ground. I placed something soft under it so it would not scratch the screen. Next I removed the TV plastic cover. I started looking for the where the chips (IC8002 and IC6501) were located and somewhere someone said it was on the "D board" which is located on the bottom edge of the TV. I found the IC8002 first located as follows: viewing the TV from the bottom view, look on the left side near the middle going towards the top. Once you find that you can find the IC6501 located just below the IC8002 behind a plastic bar. As someone recommended on this forum I used a hacksaw to VERY carefully cut the plastic bar that covers the IC6501, being careful not to cut the "D board".
Now I was ready to replace the chips. I chose to replace the IC8002 just by random. I should have taken pictures at this point but luckily user GoodWrench had done that and I was later saved.
Next I desoldered the IC8002 with soldering wick. It was pretty easy and I pulled the socket out, just make sure your soldering iron is hot enough before you start. Next, I made my second mistake. I soldered the socket onto the board without installing the chip onto the socket first. I then tried to install the chip but the legs of the chip on the bottom were not on correctly. I didn't realize this until later. I turned on the TV and it blinked the same as before (6 or 7 times).
Next I desoldered the IC6501 and this time I installed the chip into the socket before soldering the socket to the board. While I was finishing the soldering I overthought the situation and thought that pin 3 of IC6501 should be connected to R8541 so I created a solder bridge between those two pins. I turned on the TV and this time the standby light blinked 3 times without repeating.
Next day, I figured out that pin 3 of IC6501 should not be connected to R8541 so I desoldered that solder bridge I had made. Turned on the TV and it was back to the original problem of 6/7 blinks.
Next, I noticed that IC8002 legs were not installed correctly. I took the chip out and bent the legs inwards towards each other, then carefully and after many tries successfully installed it. Turned on the TV and IT WORKED, both picture and sound!!
1) Before desoldering, take pictures so you know what to solder and what not to solder when you replace it. In this case, you can use GoodWrench's pictures to determine, for example, that pin 3 of IC6501 should not be soldered to R8541.
2) Before soldering the socket to the board, install the chip to the socket first. This is very limited space and it is super tough to fit your hands in there.
Other possible problems people might run into:
Section B) Mistakes I almost made:
3) Use the hacksaw to cut the plastic but be super careful not to cut the board. I almost did.
4) Make sure pin 1 of the chip is where the dot is at, towards the left.
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