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The AC Plug Thread / The Benefits of Upgrading to Hospital Grade AC Plugs! |
Maxxwire
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From: Portland, Oregon - USA
 |  Posted: 2009-02-13 20:40
LordX- The best bargain that I know of in a high quality power cord is SIGNAL CABLE'S $59 MAGIC POWER POWER CORD which has 10 AWG Copper conductors terminated with a Marinco 5622 Hospital Grade Plug and a Marinco 320 IEC...
From the Signal Cable website-
THE CABLE DESIGN and
ELECTRICAL CHARACTERISTICS
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10 AWG 3 conductor twisted design -
High purity stranded copper for maximum conductivity -
Premium grade jacket provides excellent resistance to abrasion, water, oil -
UL listed and CSA certified -
Temperature range: -40ø C to +90ø C -
Voltage rating: 300-600 volts
~Maxx~
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[ This message was edited by: Maxxwire on 2009-03-13 17:59 ]
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Maxxwire
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Premium Member
Rank: Sony Adept
Joined: Aug 29, 2002
Posts: 25772
From: Portland, Oregon - USA
| Posted: 2009-02-13 21:23
On 2009-02-13 20:20, rgsgww wrote:
I first found this forum when searching for the benefits of hospital grade plugs and receptacles.
At first I was skeptical about the plug. So I decided to give it a try.
Some people think it makes no difference, but for "experienced listeners" it really does. I noticed better overall sound quality. Especially in the highs. This is just with a hospital grade plug, can't wait to see what a hospital grade plug and receptacle combo does.
Somebody should run 10/2 to their audio equipment. I didn't do it though...just two 12/2.
rgsgww- Welcome to Agoraquest! Its good to have another experienced listener join our ranks! I definitely agree with you that upgrading the OEM Plugs on our A/V equipment does make a noticeable impact not only on sound quality, but on Video quality also.
Using good quality Hospital Grade plugs is also important, but I found that Leviton Hospital Grade Duplex Receptacles were equally as effective as these $54 Hubbell 8200IG High Conductance Phosphor Bronze Duplex Receptacles that I also use.
~Maxx~
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A Satisfied Sony Fan Since 1974!
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[ This message was edited by: Maxxwire on 2009-03-13 18:03 ]
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rgsgww
Rank: Sony Enthusiant
Joined: Feb 13, 2009
Posts: 32
From: Iowa
 | Posted: 2009-02-13 23:38
I'm making a power strip with 4 levition hospital grade receptacles. Im using 12/2 nm for it (since I have loads of that stuff) and terminating with hospital grade 20 amp plug.
Those look like isolated ground hospital grade receptacles, notice the "triangle". In every electrical splice, the grounds or "equipment grounding conductors" are supposed to be connected together. With an isolated ground, they are seperate all the way to the breaker panel and are not to be connected with other grounding conductors.
I was thinking of taking apart my $500 PSU to replace the iec connector...problem is...havn't found 20 amp hospital grade iec connectors.
Those hospital grade plugs are very nice. For transformers (with the plug built in) I just scrape that nickel off and get right to the brass...then I polish it.
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Maxxwire
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Joined: Aug 29, 2002
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From: Portland, Oregon - USA
| Posted: 2009-02-14 03:34
rgsgww- The outlets that I use in one of my Power Strips are the LEVITON 5262IG Hospital Grade Isolated Ground Duplex Outlets. When I directly A/B tested them with the Power Strip that has the 5X expensive Hubbell 8200IG Outlets running my 4 piece Digital front end and Analog Preamp I could hear no difference whatsoever until I engaged the highly effective EMI Filter on the Hubbell Power Strip which isolates the Digital equipment and then there was a very dramatic improvement in sound quality.
THE 20 AMP FURUTECH FI-33 (G) IEC INLET is available from VH Audio.
From Chris at VH Audio-
Furutech has recently introduced the FI-33 20 AMP Gold or Rhodium plated IEC inlets! To my knowledge, these are the very first serious attempt at an audiophile grade 20 amp IEC inlet. The clamping mechanism is similar to that of the FI-25 series connectors, but is futher refined with a patent pending pressure plate that increases the surface area and grip of the clamps. You can easily get two 12 AWG conductors into each termination point (H, N, G).
You are right about the rarity of 20 Amp IEC Inlets and this is the only one I could find. It could be that this Audiophile Grade gold plated Cryogenically Treated Pure Copper IEC Inlet may be over designed for your application, but it would be the end of the upgrade path for the IEC Inlet on your $500 PSU.
I really like the technique you have developed of scraping off the Nickel plating to expose the brass for transformers with built in captured plugs and then polishing them!
~Maxx~
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A Satisfied Sony Fan Since 1974!
The OCCC Furu-Charged Sony DB 930
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rgsgww
Rank: Sony Enthusiant
Joined: Feb 13, 2009
Posts: 32
From: Iowa
| Posted: 2009-02-14 13:32
Thank you very much for the link! I have been looking for a long time for these. My psu iec connector is pretty flimsy. The cord is loose and wiggles.
I used a dremel and the appropriate bits to remove the nickel. I tried this on a block for my wireless sony headphones and noticed that the quality was slightly improved.
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Maxxwire
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Rank: Sony Adept
Joined: Aug 29, 2002
Posts: 25772
From: Portland, Oregon - USA
| Posted: 2009-02-14 16:36
On 2009-02-14 13:32, rgsgww wrote:
My psu iec connector is pretty flimsy. The cord is loose and wiggles.
You will be very happy with the way that the Furutech IEC grips the Power Cord. I've heard people say that after installing a Furutech IEC that they could literally swing the piece of equipment around by the power cord and it would not loose its grip!
Having your PSU outfitted with a highly competent IEC inlet and IEC Plug will benefit every piece of equipment that is connected to it although there is a far more inexpensive virtually cost free way to establish an even more transparent connection for your 20 Amp PSU and that would be to straightwire the power cord directly into its power supply!
~Maxx~
-----------------
A Satisfied Sony Fan Since 1974!
The OCCC Furu-Charged Sony DB 930
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rgsgww
Rank: Sony Enthusiant
Joined: Feb 13, 2009
Posts: 32
From: Iowa
| Posted: 2009-02-14 16:53
On 2009-02-14 16:36, Maxxwire wrote:
there is a far more inexpensive virtually cost free way to establish an even more transparent connection for your 20 Amp PSU and that would be to straightwire the power cord directly into its power supply!
I might be able to do this, I could outfit the thing with a romex connector, and solder directly into the board.
But then again, I would need to get a hospital grade 20 amp plug on the other end.
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Maxxwire
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From: Portland, Oregon - USA
| Posted: 2009-02-15 02:17
For an economical solution you might check out the $18 LEVITON 8315-C 20 AMP AC PLUG which has all Brass Blades unlike its more expensive Hubbell counterpart. I haven't had time to completely research this Drill Spot price yet, but I have seen the same Leviton 8315-C for $29 on other sites.
~Maxx~
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A Satisfied Sony Fan Since 1974!
The OCCC Furu-Charged Sony DB 930
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rgsgww
Rank: Sony Enthusiant
Joined: Feb 13, 2009
Posts: 32
From: Iowa
| Posted: 2009-02-15 05:45
On 2009-02-15 02:17, Maxxwire wrote: For an economical solution you might check out the $18 LEVITON 8315-C 20 AMP AC PLUG which has all Brass Blades unlike its more expensive Hubbell counterpart. I haven't had time to completely research this Drill Spot price yet, but I have seen the same Leviton 8315-C for $29 on other sites. ~Maxx~ ----------------- rgsgww
Yeah I have one on order, but only one. I don't feel like getting more shipped right now.
Its a different white version and its only about $10 at dale-electric.
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LordX
Rank: Sony Buff
Joined: Feb 06, 2009
Posts: 13
From: USA
| Posted: 2009-02-15 13:49
Ok, I upgraded the plug on my receiver/amp to the Leviton hospital grade one.
Interestingly, the hiccup is now back... (the plug was the only thing changed).
I have decided to finally make the call and get a new amp. There must be something wrong with it for it to be SO sensitive to the small electrical changes!
But now that I have read this forum, when I get my new amp, the first thing I will do is upgrade the power cord.
When I cut open the power cord to replace the plug, it looks just like speaker wire inside...
Is speaker wire in effect the same thing as ac power wire?
If so, could I take large gauge speaker wire, and use that as the AC power cord???
Would braiding the cord in a twist like way actually help as I see with some cables?
Also, I will need to look inside the amp when I get the new one to see how the ac cord is connected to the power supply. I hope that there are terminals on the inside that use screws, because that would be SO easy, but I would bet that it will be soldered in.
I will post some photos of the inside of the units psu when I get the new one.
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rgsgww
Rank: Sony Enthusiant
Joined: Feb 13, 2009
Posts: 32
From: Iowa
| Posted: 2009-02-15 14:28
On 2009-02-15 13:49, LordX wrote:
Ok, I upgraded the plug on my receiver/amp to the Leviton hospital grade one.
Interestingly, the hiccup is now back... (the plug was the only thing changed).
Thats odd, I used hospital grade plugs and had positive results.
I have decided to finally make the call and get a new amp. There must be something wrong with it for it to be SO sensitive to the small electrical changes!
Probably, I doubt somebody would make an amp that sensitive. Some people put their amps on non dedicated circuits, and no problem.
But now that I have read this forum, when I get my new amp, the first thing I will do is upgrade the power cord.
Sounds like a good idea.
When I cut open the power cord to replace the plug, it looks just like speaker wire inside...
Yes, power cord and speaker wire can be very similar.
Is speaker wire in effect the same thing as ac power wire?
Sort of, speaker wire does not have the same fire rated insulation as power cord.
If so, could I take large gauge speaker wire, and use that as the AC power cord???
I would not do that, because the speaker wire does not have the proper insulation.
You could use some of the fancy cords mentioned here, but it might not be a big bang for the buck. Use a large gauge power cord.
Would braiding the cord in a twist like way actually help as I see with some cables?
Yes it may help, not sure how big of an effect it could be, wouldn't hurt to try.
Also, I will need to look inside the amp when I get the new one to see how the ac cord is connected to the power supply. I hope that there are terminals on the inside that use screws, because that would be SO easy, but I would bet that it will be soldered in.
It depends, some have large transformers in them, I would have some shrink tubing on hand incase you need to solder right on to another wire.
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Maxxwire
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Rank: Sony Adept
Joined: Aug 29, 2002
Posts: 25772
From: Portland, Oregon - USA
| Posted: 2009-02-15 16:06
LordX- Before you build the power cord for your new Amp I would suggest that you check out JON RISCH'S AC POWER CORD NOTES and then get the best quality insulated 12 AWG solid core Copper wire that is rated for AC Power transmission from somewhere like Home Depot then search the web for the DIY wire geometry that you think will work best in your situation possibly one that will help to reject hiccups.
~Maxx~
PS- Could you also list your equipment set so we can get a better idea of what you are dealing with?
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A Satisfied Sony Fan Since 1974!
The OCCC Furu-Charged Sony DB 930
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Maxxwire
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Joined: Aug 29, 2002
Posts: 25772
From: Portland, Oregon - USA
| Posted: 2009-02-15 16:18
rgsgww- That was a very incisive and detailed reply that you made to LordX's post thank you very much for taking the time to make such a valuable contribution to this Thread. There are two things that I am hoping you could do...
1) Could you share the makes and models of A/V equipment that you are running so that we can get a clearer idea of what your whole System consists of?
2) Is there a nickname of some sort that we can address you with instead of the 6 lettered moniker that you are using seeing as how you are now posting regularly here at Agoraquest?
~Maxx~
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A Satisfied Sony Fan Since 1974!
 Explore 12+ Pages of Sony MaxxPix
[ This message was edited by: Maxxwire on 2009-03-13 18:05 ]
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rgsgww
Rank: Sony Enthusiant
Joined: Feb 13, 2009
Posts: 32
From: Iowa
| Posted: 2009-02-15 17:31
On 2009-02-15 16:18, Maxxwire wrote: rgsgww- That was a very incisive and detailed reply that you made to LordX's post thank you very much for taking the time to make such a valuable contribution to this Thread. There are two things that I am hoping you could do... 1) Could you share the makes and models of A/V equipment that you are running so that we can get a clearer idea of what your whole System consists of? 2) Is there a nickname of some sort that we can address you with instead of the 6 lettered moniker that you are using seeing as how you are now posting regularly here at Agoraquest? ~Maxx~ ----------------- A Satisfied Sony Fan Since 1974!  Explore 12+ Pages of Sony MaxxPix[ This message was edited by: Maxxwire on 2009-02-15 16:21 ]
I don't have a large setup. Its very small. I'm not a big movie fanatic, more of a gaming fanatic.
I just have a simple 5.1 setup (Logitech z-5500) With a 24 inch acer p243w (1920x1200)
Monitor is connected to an Evga GTX 285 by dvi. Logitech is hooked up to Auzentech prelude 7.1 by toslink.
Motherboard is an Evga 790i ultra sli. I have 4 gbs of ddr3 ram running at 1333mhz. Processor is an Intel qx9650 quad core running at 3ghz. I have 3 hard drives, my linux drive, a 7.2k rpm 40 gb western digital, my Vista/XP drive, a 10k rpm 300gb western digital and my storage drive, a 7.2k rpm 500gb seagate.
PSU is an ultra x3 1600 watt.
This setup suits me just fine, especially when my ears are only 2 ft away from the speakers, and the sub sits 2 ft away from me.
Reason I'm doing all these different mods for my stuff is because I like to max out my hardware to get the most out of it.
I like to be called "rgs" for short. How about you?
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LordX
Rank: Sony Buff
Joined: Feb 06, 2009
Posts: 13
From: USA
| Posted: 2009-02-15 22:07
Maxx - Thanks for the link to that article, it definitely makes the case for an upgraded AC input.
When you say: "Solid Core copper wire" what does that mean? Solid like the actual power wires running from my breaker box?
The only reason I ask is because the tiny copper wires in speaker wire offer much more surface area.
My equipment is as follows:
Acer PH530 Projector on a 120" Elitescreen
(soon to be) Denon AVR-2803 receiver/amp
Custom built HTPC for all my media/music needs
Power system:
Dedicated 15A Circuit
APC 1500VA Battery Backup/UPS system
Monster AVS-2000 Voltage Stabilizer
Monster Power bar 1100 Noise filtration
On the old amp (a Denon AVR-3200), and most likely the new amp, the power cord is already soldered into the PSU.
It will be Zero fun trying to re-solder.
There are two 'spikes' that come out of the PSU on the old amp that the AC cord is soldered to.
If this is the same for the AVR-2803 and I do not feel like soldering, is there something you could suggest to clamp the new AC cord to the spikes?
This is a silly question until I get the new AMP and take a photo of it and post it, but if you know exactly what I am taking about then perhaps I can be prepared before the arrival.
It does not look like your photo of your soldering job on your PSU.
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