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    Moderated By: Toli
    Agoraquest Forum Index Getting Started/Building a Home Theater
      
    The 7000 SS has FINALLY arrived! Dashboard
    Replies: 31 | Views: 5,051
    Last Reply: March 21, 2006, 2:51 pm

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    Author The 7000 SS has FINALLY arrived!
    retate

    Rank: Sony Aficionado


    Joined: Nov 29, 2002
    Posts: 128
    From: Minnesota

      Posted: 2006-03-05 00:23

    Ed,

    In regards to the 143 volt spike, the power company will most likely have specifications as to what is an acceptable spike in terms of voltage and duration.  It is possible that they may suggest that 143 volt spike, if the spike is of a very short duration is acceptable by their standards or that the Monster Power device is too sensitive becuase it is reporting instaneous peaks.  I haven't had a reason to look into what the acceptable standards are in terms of spikes, so I can't point you at where you might find that information.  I did want to provide you with some background in this area though as the better informed you are on what to expect, the better chance you will be able to get them to work with you.

    One other experiment you could try would be to shut off every electrical circuit you can in your house for a few minutes and see if the low voltage condition improves.  If it improves noticeably, this would suggest that the problem is specific to your house or the electrical feed to your house.

    Bob




    On 2006-03-04 09:32, edconline wrote:
    Ok,
    The power company is sending a technician out Friday morning to take a reading. They originally were just going to take one reading at the meter, so I asked them to leave a monitor for at least a week to prove how bad the fluctuations are but apparently that is up to the technician when he/she comes. I actually had to argue with them for a good 15 minutes just to get them to send someone out, they kept telling me that it was impossible it was fluctuating that much.




       


    Maxxwire
    Moderator
    Premium Member

    Rank: Sony Adept


    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 26074
    From: Portland, Oregon - USA

      Posted: 2006-03-05 00:45



    • Member Quote

    On 2006-03-04 22:58, edconline wrote:Another question: I was looking at the back of the UPS's and the fact that the cord wasn't attached. I then learned for the first time what an IEC recepticle was and about power cord upgrades. Now I'm curious as to what the benefits of upgrading power cords would be. I know both the 7100ES and the 9100ES have IEC recepticles and that the power cords supplied with both look pretty thin, almost like slightly heavier lamp cord. Also, come to think about it the cord on my SAWX900 is really flimsy too, that one however is built in so upgrading it may prove to be a bit of a challenge.

    Thanks for all your help!
    -Ed


    I am currently using 7 after market Power Cords in my Audio system and without their added RFI/EMI sheilding, custom wire geometry and redundant network filtering (for the Digital front end) the sound of my Audio system would suffer severly.

    Not every after market Power Cord works as well with every piece of equipment as the next one does. It took a lot of experimenting, but I finally found the Power Cords that work best for each of the 7 assignments in my Audio system.

    As far as your SAWX900 goes you can install a male IEC where the captured cord enters the piece for just a few dollars which will allow you to use any after market Power Cord you choose.

    ~Maxx~

    -----------------
    A Satisfied Sony Fan Since 1974!



    The OCCC Furu-Charged Sony DB 930


         
    jehill
    Premium Member

    Rank: Sony Senior Advisor


    Joined: Mar 13, 2003
    Posts: 14282
    From: Sewell, NJ

      Posted: 2006-03-05 11:24

    Thanks for the additional information Ed and Bob.  I found this article to be of particular interest.  Now I understand what Monster means by balanced power.  If confined to within the Monster product, it does nothing to reduce the increase in voltage on one phase of the distribution panel when a heavy load is started on the other phase of the distribution panel, but that's not the primary concern.  The primary concern is balancing the currents in the two sides of the AC line to a component so that any noise currents cancel out, the same as accomplished by a balanced audio circuit.  Ideally, the AC distribution circuits for sensitive A/V equipment would be powered by a 220/110 VAC step-down transformer with a center tapped 110 VAC winding to make it a 220 VAC load, extending the balanced circuity back to the distribution panel.  No doubt this is what they do in well designed recording studios.  The instrument power buses in commercial plants are usually fed by similar step down transformers. 

    -----------------
    -John

    Sony A/V System: KDL-55XBR8, BDP-S550 and AVD-LA2500PKG, consisting of AVD-C70ES Super Audio CD/DVD Receiver, 4 SS-LA500ED surround speakers, 1 SS-LAC505ED center channel speaker and 1 SA-WD200 Active Subwoofer


       
    edconline

    Rank: Sony Aficionado


    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 147
    From: Ontario, Canada

      Posted: 2006-03-05 11:48

    Bob,
    Thanks for the link, that was an interssting read. As far as the panel, apparently it is a 125A service, it was 110 and it was upgraded to 125 when we moved in 10 years ago. There is certainly a heavy load on the panel as we just put in a hot tub, the hot water heater was upgraded to a larger one, and because everyone likes the heat (and it's COLD up here this time of year) the furnace runs constantly. I will try the experiment with shutting everything else off sometime next week when no one else is home to see if it improves the situation. 


    Assuming that the problem does lie within the house, and the panel needs to be upgraded, what does that entail/ is it something that we could do ourselves and what would a rough cost of that be? 

    The 7000 SS does have an outrageously large power cord (looks slightly bigger than a stove plug) however it is built in. I wouldn't mind purchasing one aftermarket IEC cord just to test with my 7100 as that cord looks very thin. Any suggestions you have as far as aftermarket cords would be appreciated, I was looking at the Monster Powerline 300. Assuming there is a noticable improvement, I would be interested in installing an IEC outlet on my SAWX900, and would go from there.

    Thanks again everyone for all you help, there is no way my home theater would be where it is today without everyone on this site. Could someone direct me to where I can upgrade to a paid membership as Agoraquest would undoubtably be the best investment I've made in my home theater to date!

    Ed

    -----------------
    KDSR60XBR2, STRDA7100ES, DVPNS9100ES, RDRGX315, SLVN750, SSK90ED (x2), SSK70ED (x3), SSMB150H (x2), SAWX900 x 2, SAWX700 x 2, PS3 (60GB), Dell XPS M1710 w/ BD Burner, Xbox 360 w/ HD DVD, Gamecube, RMAV3000, HTPS 7000 SS MK2, AVS 2000 SS, HTUPS 500 x 2


         
    jehill
    Premium Member

    Rank: Sony Senior Advisor


    Joined: Mar 13, 2003
    Posts: 14282
    From: Sewell, NJ

      Posted: 2006-03-05 18:17

    Upgrading your service yourself isn't project that I would recommend for the faint of heart.  What type installation do you have?  Is it conventional with wires from a power pole to your house or is it underground?  Lets assume that its the former installation.  As a minimum, the following must be replaced:

    1) meter pan
    2) cable from the weather head to the new meter pan
    3) cable from meter pan to new distribution panel
    4) ground wire from cold water pipe entrance to home to new distribution panel
    5) ground wire from new distribution panel to a new grounding rod

    Usually, a home owner can do all of the work himself.  After my experience, I wouldn't recommend attempting to do so.

    Here are the steps that I performed to the best of my memory:

    1) obtained building permit from municipality
    2) obtained new meter pan form the local power company
    3) purchased a suitable distribution panel, breakers, service cable, weather head, eggs for temporary connections to utility feed, electrical tape for the temporary connections, ground wire and ground rod for the service intended.  My local electrical distributor was able to assist me in determining and providing everything that I needed, except we cheated on the ground rod (they didn't have the size required).  I used the NEC as a guide.  I believe that the cable that I purchased was 0000 aluminum.
    4) installed new meter panel on wall next to present meter pan
    5) installed new weather head
    6) ran new service cable next to old cable with enough slack at the top to pass through weather head for connections to utility feed
    7) wired new service wiring to new meter pan
    wired cable stub to meter pan long enough to pass through hole through the wall into the new service panel and make connections
    9) rented a ladder with fiberglass sides (commonly referred to as a fiberglass ladder)
    10) removed the meter (disconnects the service)
    11) prepared the wires coming out of the weather head for temporary power connection
    12) cut the wires from from the utility feed very carefully one at a time, prepared for connections and taped (I don't remember where I got the cutters).  Wore suitable rubber electrical gloves!
    13) very carefully connected the wires coming out of the new weather head to the utility feed one wire at a time using the eggs and taped
    14) tagged and disconnected all existing circuits in the present service panel and removed the present service panel
    15) enlarged hole through wall to accommodate the new service cable
    16) made sure the disconnect was open and installed the new service panel
    17) when installation was complete, installed the meter that was removed from the old meter pan in the new meter pan to restore power
    1 scheduled power company to inspect installation and replace eggs with permanent connections
    19) schedule municipal building inspection

    I think that's about it.  If it sounds scary, it is!  As an electrical engineer, I was determined to do it myself.  I would never do it again.  Proper tools would have been a big help.  An electrical contractor would have been able to easily enlarge the hole in the wall for the service cable because he would have the proper heavy duty drill.  I had to repeatedly drill small holes and then file the hole smooth.  That was only half of the battle.  My wife held the wired new distribution panel up so that I could push the new service cable though the wall and through a hole in the top because the cable is so stiff!  I made the connections to the service disconnect breaker and then pulled the panel down to bend the cable.  You should have seen us!  One of our neighbors felt sorry for us and brought over a Colman gas lantern so that we could see what we were doing in the wee hours of the night!

    The first additional circuit that I installed was a dedicated 20A (12AWG) circuit for my pair of 200 watt amps.

    This was fun!  I just relived and old experience!

    -----------------
    -John

    Sony A/V System: KDL-55XBR8, BDP-S550 and AVD-LA2500PKG, consisting of AVD-C70ES Super Audio CD/DVD Receiver, 4 SS-LA500ED surround speakers, 1 SS-LAC505ED center channel speaker and 1 SA-WD200 Active Subwoofer


       
    retate

    Rank: Sony Aficionado


    Joined: Nov 29, 2002
    Posts: 128
    From: Minnesota

      Posted: 2006-03-06 00:25



    Ed,

    I would second the cautions that John has highlighted from his experience.  I am also an electrical engineer, and while I am willing to work in breaker boxes from time to time, I did not do the upgrade of my service entrance, and as I recall the electrician who was doing it was even a little uneasy with with moving all of the connections hot.  Even if someone has experience in this area I would highlight the additional cautions.

    - Some electrical inspectores take a dim view of non professionals doing there own work which can add to the hassle factor.
    - Because you will have to break a meter seal the power company may also hassle you if they don't think you are qualified to do the work.
    - Even the pros make errors in doing this work.  Just in the past year I found an error that the electrician had made when my service entrance was upgraded years ago.  He had failed to seperate the ground and neutral in my original service panel when it became a sub panel.

    In regards to cost that will very much depend on your individual situation.  At the time I had my service entrance upgraded the power company had the responsibility for the feed to the meter so there was no charge for them running new wiring to the meter, but what the policy is in other areas I have no idea.  From a cost perspective it will most likely save you money if the current panel can become a sub-panel as that minimizes the amount of existing wiring that has to be changed.  In this case a typical approach would be to move a few heavy load items to the new panel, and perhaps the audio circuits, and then feed the original panel from the new panel.

    I also noted that your service was upgraded from 110 amp to 125 amp 10 years ago.  An increase of only 15 amps in capacity strikes me as unusual.  It suggests to me that someone at that time thought that the 110 amps was marginal or did not meet code, and that a minimal upgrade was done to minimize cost and address the concern at the time.  This also makes it more likely that with your recent additions to electrical load that you may be pushing things.  It could also be at the same time you are adding a hot tub, etc. that your neighbors are adding new loads as well which would contribute to the problem you are having.

    Bob


       
    edconline

    Rank: Sony Aficionado


    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 147
    From: Ontario, Canada

      Posted: 2006-03-06 17:41

    John,
    Thanks for posting your experience with it, after reading that there is no chance I would attempt it by myself, I had no idea so much was involved with it. UPS came today and i rushed home waiting to see the AVS but ALAS - Monster shipped me another HTPS 7000! I emailed customer service, hopefully they will send the AVS before receiving the HTPS back, obviously i'm going to send it back but forcing me to wait longer for a mistake they made would be a drag Oh well, I think I'm going to play around with mass loading my sub, I picked up some patio slabs to try it out because it is on really thick carpet and one of the drivers fires down.
    -Ed

    -----------------
    KDSR60XBR2, STRDA7100ES, DVPNS9100ES, RDRGX315, SLVN750, SSK90ED (x2), SSK70ED (x3), SSMB150H (x2), SAWX900 x 2, SAWX700 x 2, PS3 (60GB), Dell XPS M1710 w/ BD Burner, Xbox 360 w/ HD DVD, Gamecube, RMAV3000, HTPS 7000 SS MK2, AVS 2000 SS, HTUPS 500 x 2


         
    Maxxwire
    Moderator
    Premium Member

    Rank: Sony Adept


    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 26074
    From: Portland, Oregon - USA

      Posted: 2006-03-07 02:10

    Ed- Sorry to hear about the delay, but Mass Loading your Subwoofer could prove to be a very rewarding way to spend your time while waiting for your AVS 2000 to arrive.

    ~Maxx~

    -----------------
    A Satisfied Sony Fan Since 1974!



    The OCCC Furu-Charged Sony DB 930


         
    edconline

    Rank: Sony Aficionado


    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 147
    From: Ontario, Canada

      Posted: 2006-03-11 10:41



    The Latest:
    The power company came out yesterday to see about what was causing the voltage sags/spikes. They pulled the meter and read the voltage at 118.5, which is an 'acceptable level' apparently, and I'd be inclined to agree. However, even after reading that at the meter, the voltage still said 108 in my room. Apparently one side of the meter wasn't supplying power so they replaced it with a new digital one. They did tell me that the cable coming in from the road was thin fro a run that long as was the one going from the meter into the house. Also, apparently one side of the panel has massive draw and the other side has virtually none. It's odd though as the breakers in use are pretty evenly distributed between the two sides. Finally, they did say that 125 amp service is pretty low these days and that likely things turning on at different times of the day is drawing too much and causing the voltage to sag which makes sense as it is lowest in the afternoon when everyone is home. I haven't yet gotten the chance to try a reading with everything else turned off, but starting tomorrow I am on vacation for 9 days so there will be tons of time to test various things as well as do some other upgrades/testing I've been wanting to do. The AVS 2000 got shipped Friday, so I should see it Mon or Tues, I will post results once I get it hooked up and play with it. Still waiting for the paint to dry on my patio slab so I can so some mass loading testing, will post findings (In a more appropriate post).
    Ed

    -----------------
    KDSR60XBR2, STRDA7100ES, DVPNS9100ES, RDRGX315, SLVN750, SSK90ED (x2), SSK70ED (x3), SSMB150H (x2), SAWX900 x 2, SAWX700 x 2, PS3 (60GB), Dell XPS M1710 w/ BD Burner, Xbox 360 w/ HD DVD, Gamecube, RMAV3000, HTPS 7000 SS MK2, AVS 2000 SS, HTUPS 500 x 2


         
    jehill
    Premium Member

    Rank: Sony Senior Advisor


    Joined: Mar 13, 2003
    Posts: 14282
    From: Sewell, NJ

      Posted: 2006-03-11 13:11

    Did replacement of your old meter with a new digital one increase the voltage in your room above 108VAC?  If it didn't, you have a 10VAC drop in the wiring from the box to your room, which may or may not be acceptable depending the length and wire size of the run.  One thing that I should point out is that often a run is daisy chained from one receptacle to another.  A poor connection at any of the receptacles could be causing the drop, which means that the connection is overheating and possibly a fire hazard.

    I am not so sure that installation of the AVS2000 is a good idea right now, because it might mask significant external problems that need to be corrected.  Chances are that the only way the power company will increase the size of the cable from the pole to the house is if it is necessary to accommodate an increase in the size of your electrical service.  Before you even think about that, you need to ensure that the wiring internal to you house is safe.  That might require the services of a qualified electrician.

    I replaced my electrical service when a circuit breaker failed to trip due to a direct short between the hot and neutral prongs of a an AC plug resulting from my son attempting to remove a plug with a piece from and erector set.  The failure was due to water seepage into the distribution panel through the down-lead.  You could actually see green copper oxide corrosion.  It was a very dangerous situation.

    -----------------
    -John

    Sony A/V System: KDL-55XBR8, BDP-S550 and AVD-LA2500PKG, consisting of AVD-C70ES Super Audio CD/DVD Receiver, 4 SS-LA500ED surround speakers, 1 SS-LAC505ED center channel speaker and 1 SA-WD200 Active Subwoofer


       
    edconline

    Rank: Sony Aficionado


    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 147
    From: Ontario, Canada

      Posted: 2006-03-11 15:42

    John,
    The new digital meter did nothing to correct the problems with the voltage. Often at night (1:30am - 7:30am or so) the voltage will read 117-119, even 120 at times. It is mostly when everyone is home in the afternoon that i see 106-108 volts and the sags down to the 90's. Unfourtunately that is often when I am making use of the home theater. (For whatever reason, people don't appreciate the 1000W dual 12" at 3:45am)

    The wiring in my room is all brand new 14/2 and is no longer than 50 feet from the panel to the room. All the outlets are wired correctly and there are three circuits to the room, one for lighting, one for the outlets, and one for the double set of outlets for my home theater all on new 15A breakers. I now firmly believe that the problem is we simply use an outrageous amount of current compared with our service. The hot tub never shuts off, there are 7 pple living in the house so the hot water heater is almost always running for showers, dishwashers, etc, approx 4 computers are on at any given time, several deep freezers, washer and dryer run almost 8 hours a day and the stove is in constant use. No one shuts off lights either. The stove, dryer and hot tub are all on 40A breakers so thats 120A of our 125A service right there. (I understand that they would likely never use that much current, but just to put it in perspective)

    By putting in the AVS 2000, I correct the problem to my equipment and get my desired result. As for the rest of the house, I would certainly upgrade the service to a 200A service but as it is my parents house, and they are not concerned with the voltage at all (After all, it is only myself that is into the home theater/music stuff, despite the other 2 home theaters in the house no one is really concerned with the quality of those setups)  they are not prepared to put money into something they see no benefit from. As I will probably be moving out to a house of my own in the next couple years (WITH a 200A amp service of course!) I don't really want to front the money to upgrade their service.

    I do think however that your absolutely right that it would be a good idea to get an electrician to at least inspect the existing wiring in the rest of the house and the panel to make sure it isnt old wires or a short that is causing the problem. That to be sure, affects everyones safety so I'm sure that is a justifiable expense. Thanks again for your suggestions and comments.

    Ed

    -----------------
    KDSR60XBR2, STRDA7100ES, DVPNS9100ES, RDRGX315, SLVN750, SSK90ED (x2), SSK70ED (x3), SSMB150H (x2), SAWX900 x 2, SAWX700 x 2, PS3 (60GB), Dell XPS M1710 w/ BD Burner, Xbox 360 w/ HD DVD, Gamecube, RMAV3000, HTPS 7000 SS MK2, AVS 2000 SS, HTUPS 500 x 2


         
    jehill
    Premium Member

    Rank: Sony Senior Advisor


    Joined: Mar 13, 2003
    Posts: 14282
    From: Sewell, NJ

      Posted: 2006-03-11 19:01

    The good news is that all of the equipment that you are purchasing may be used in your new home.  I never bothered to check until now, but we have a 150A service in our relatively small home in an over 55 development.  The service is underground and the transformer is in our front yard on the border line with a neighbor.  We don't have any heavy loads like a hot tub.  Our heaviest loads are the electric stove, dryer and AC, all 220VAC loads.

    One other tidbit of information that you might find useful is that a residential service is rated at I believe 60% duty cycle, meaning that it can only accommodate 60% of the rated load continuously.

    -----------------
    -John

    Sony A/V System: KDL-55XBR8, BDP-S550 and AVD-LA2500PKG, consisting of AVD-C70ES Super Audio CD/DVD Receiver, 4 SS-LA500ED surround speakers, 1 SS-LAC505ED center channel speaker and 1 SA-WD200 Active Subwoofer


       
    retate

    Rank: Sony Aficionado


    Joined: Nov 29, 2002
    Posts: 128
    From: Minnesota

      Posted: 2006-03-12 22:49



    Although 14/2 has been the default for 15 amp circuits for many years I believe US code currenly is that 14/2 is to used for lighting circuits, and other circuits should be 12/2 even if the circuit breaker is 15 amps.  Using 12/2 or 10/2 for an audio/video circuit may improve your sound quality even if you don't need the current capacity.

    There are some really useful test devices for checking out electrical circuits that have been available the last few years such as the Ideal SureTest Circuit analyzers.  I have an earlier model of the SureTest 164 which I have found very useful.  The SureTest 164 sells for between $200 to $240 so it is not a cheap tool, but if you could find somewhere to borrow one or rent one it would help idenfity wiring problems. 

    http://www.idealindustries.com/tm/SureTest.nsf

    Bob



       
    edconline

    Rank: Sony Aficionado


    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 147
    From: Ontario, Canada

      Posted: 2006-03-21 00:20

    Well the AVS 2000 finally arrived on Friday morning just as I was about to head out for the weekend, so I took some time to set it up but didn't get a chance to really test the system at all. When I got back Sunday I was way too tired to do anything but go to bed so it wasn't until today that I got to give it a try.

    Just as I expected, the AVS 2000 SS matches the 7000 SS beautifully, although it's significantly larger and heaver the styling is almost identical. It has three readouts, one on the left for output voltage, the larger center display shows the voltage correction, and the far right display shows the current usage. The two left displays are always changing rapidly as the power coming in is anything but stable. The AVS 2000 does an excellent job of keeping the voltage within 1 volt in either direction of a perfect 120 volts. In fact, throughout the entire day it never once dropped the output voltage lower than 119.3 or had it higher than 120.9. The voltage correction varies greatly, as I write this at about midnight my time, it is only adding between 1 to 2.5 volts to achieve 120 at the outlets. Earlier this afternoon it was adding approx 8.9 volts constantly and when someone turned the hot tub on it jumped to adding over 13 volts!

    Upon first glance at the HTPS 7000, which is plugged into the AVS 2000 I noticed that neither the voltage or the current usage matched on the displays. I quickly found that the current usage varied as the HTPS 7000 drew a slight bit of current for itself and wasn't as instant a response as the AVS, rather displaying more of the current peaks over time whereas the AVS 2000 displayed the instantaneous current usage, just as OnlyES had told me was the case. Similarily, the input voltage on the HTPS 7000 is always a few volts lower than the output voltage on the AVS 2000 which struck me as odd. Also, the input voltage on the HTPS will drop depending on which components connected to it are turned on. With nothing connected at all, it sits at around 119.2 sometimes displaying 120 however it will still occasionally fluctuate at random. To settle it once and for all I took a voltmeter and tested the outlets on the AVS 2000. The voltmeter ALWAYS agreed that the AVS 2000 was in fact outputting a pretty much perfect 120 volts no matter what equipment was turned on or off. Next, I tested the outlets on the HTPS 7000. They too showed a pretty much perfect 120 volts with no loss from the AVS 2000. Finally I called Monster Cable and was informed that because the voltmeter was so sensitive sometimes in shipping the calibration was thrown off slightly and if it bothered me at all they would gladly recalibrate or replace it however it in no way effected the performance of either unit, which was what my testing with the outside voltmeter had confirmed. So, no harm done, I'm quite content with knowing that both units are operating perfectly and a ever so slight display error doesnt bother me at all.

    Through testing various material once the AVS 2000 was in the system I found various improvements. First of all, the AVS 2000 didn't have the same in your face right away difference that the HTPS 7000 made, it took more time to notice the improvements that it made. I noticed after watching some HD content on my PVR hard drive that the black level had been darkened even more to an almost completely pitch black. Also, the almost non existent grain in well lit shots was gone entirely and in darker scenes with some grain it cleaned it up nicely. Next I found that I now have no weird ghost lines that travel down the screen randomly. It used to happen maybe once or twice every two hours or so, and the lights in my room would dim slightly for a second at the same time. Now, the lights still dim but no lines on the TV! Upon listening to some CD and SACD material, I found over several hours of listening that there was slightly more detail present on the recordings now, I could just hear more instruments. Also, I was doing most of the listening in the afternoon/evening when I usually find system performance wasn't at its best for some reason. Now my system sounds even better than when I used to listen late at night, my favourite time to relax and listen to music. Listening to music tonight, it still sounds the same - which means whatever was happening during the afternoon that was degrading performance is gone - now I can enjoy full quality anytime of the day!

    I also hooked up both of my UPS 500's to the HTPS 7000 - one for my TV, the other for my PVR. While I did not notice any improvements to the picture, I didn't expect to. What I did notice is that there was no degredation either, and both units keep performed well when tested, keeping my TV going for a solid 20+ minutes and the PVR for over half an hour running on batteries. This will allow more than enough time for the TV bulb and the PVR hard drive to cool once the units are powered down to standby in the event of a power outage.

    I am certain that I will continue to notice improvements as I use the units longer, but even based on my limited use of these components I would certainly recommend any of the three to anyone looking for an excellent power solution with superb value. Alas as today is my last day of vacation and it's back to work tomorrow morning I may not get much testing time in for a while (I'm sure my store is trashed!) but as I find new things about the units I will certainly post my findings here. Thanks to everyone for all your help throughout my power quest! As it turns out, my mother is considering getting the service upgraded to 200A after all. It seems that after she saw how much of a difference the AVS was making (when she looked at it it was adding over 10 volts) the seriousness of the problem sort of dawned on her.
    -Ed

    -----------------
    KDSR60XBR2, STRDA7100ES, DVPNS9100ES, RDRGX315, SLVN750, SSK90ED (x2), SSK70ED (x3), SSMB150H (x2), SAWX900 x 2, SAWX700 x 2, PS3 (60GB), Dell XPS M1710 w/ BD Burner, Xbox 360 w/ HD DVD, Gamecube, RMAV3000, HTPS 7000 SS MK2, AVS 2000 SS, HTUPS 500 x 2


         
    jehill
    Premium Member

    Rank: Sony Senior Advisor


    Joined: Mar 13, 2003
    Posts: 14282
    From: Sewell, NJ

      Posted: 2006-03-21 11:33

    I am happy to hear that your are pleased with the AVS 2000 / HTPS 7000 combo.  Is the HTPS 7000 voltmeter a digital display?  There may be an internal adjustment to allow you to match the reading to whatever standard you choose.  However, your would think that Monster would tell you about it.

    -----------------
    -John

    Sony A/V System: KDL-55XBR8, BDP-S550 and AVD-LA2500PKG, consisting of AVD-C70ES Super Audio CD/DVD Receiver, 4 SS-LA500ED surround speakers, 1 SS-LAC505ED center channel speaker and 1 SA-WD200 Active Subwoofer


       
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