The parameter WBSW, exclusive for warm. Have you calibrated warm with WBSW at 0, 1 ?
WBSW appears to be a switch for a Sony-suggested setting for "Warm." You can choose it by setting it to 1, then Writing the setting. If you change it back to 0, the previously-saved "warm" settings will remain.
But, as I explained in one of my articles, Warm and Cool are adjusted as *offsets* from Normal. IMHO, if you set Normal to, say, 6500K or near it, you will find Sony's WBSW "warm" suggestion to be too warm, too yellowish, and too dark. So I ignore it.
I have set Normal to my satisfaction as described here:
Then, having measured the color shift of a reliable glass #81A filter for a camera, I noted that the shift required for an accurate color-temp change involved a slightly yellow-heavy mix of red and yellow -- sort of a salmon color (the reverse for cooler). A good proportion would be 5 parts yellow plus 4 parts red. (Yellow = minus blue.) Equal amounts work okay, too, for small increments. You might try offsets of, say +3 red and -3 blue for warm; reverse the + and - signs for cool. The setting for no change (zero offset) is 31, so warm would then be red = 34, green = 31, and blue = 28. The Ds and Cs in the codes are for drive and cutoff;make them the same.
"Warm" example: RDOF = RCOF = 34, GDOF = GCOF = 31, and BDOF = BCOF = 28. Cut the offsets to 2 if that's too big a step, or increase them if you want more.
Sony's idiotic "Cool" setting is simply to add 3 to blue alone. Wrong! It is as if someone with no understanding of color temperature devised those settings!
Thanks Ken, I pretty much have neutral scaled out, as well as cool, using the offsets. My problem was goofing around with warm. Really could not get a decent white w/out reverting WBSW to 0 and recalibrating. In warm, my goal was to create "a tad" warmer picture, but WBSW set at 1 was rediculous. As you said it, SALMON ! So, to my eyes and my homemade photoelectric cell w/ ohm meter, warm is now the same as neutral with WBSW set to 0. I have added a touch of GAMR to IMHO, warm things up a tad.
Thanks for your reply and let me say, your dedication to the threads with your knowledge is greatly appreciated. You, Andy, John, and others have certainly made this forum top notch.
On 2005-05-15 19:56, loadams wrote: I have added a touch of GAMR to IMHO, warm things up a tad.
But you mightt also have made the grayscale response nonlinear. That is, relative to whites and shadows, the midtones are now warmer. That's if your three GAM_ settings already tracked perfectly. (Mine didn't. I had to add +1 to GAMB just to get *perfect* grayscale tracking.)
I guess I remain a purist who claims that one should set Color to 0 and get a perfect grayscale first, even if it means fooling with GAM_ for one of the colors. And then you can adjust the color of the "light" that makes up the grayscale, all tones. When you finaly turn the color back up, everything is gloriously accurate. Maybe that's what you've actually accomplished.
Note that the adjustment you made to GAMR is tied to one of four possible GAMM presets and back to picture mode, not the color-temp slider. When you change to Normal or Cool, the GAMR adjustment will still be in effect; but if you change picture modes, you may lose it if you haven't adjusted it four al four picture modes. (Just checking! These interactions are sometimes confusing.)
Thanks Ken, Using Standard in neutral for cable and sometimes hdtv, pro for dvd and hdtv in warm, depending on the broadcast.
I,or at least my wife, thinks I am a purist when it comes to "getting it right". Deviating at times with the color temp, blue must look blue, red must look red, and white must look white. There will always be different situations, lighting, contrast, etc. However, having the ability to change and vary color temp on a tv is a plus. Just like placing cc filters over a lense in photography when you need it. You are at the mercy of every engineer (not throwing rocks at you) , to properly cal EVERY camera to 6500 on every show and every movie and every scene. Not gonna happen. And yes, I did take your advice on the GAMB up one notch in neutral, really does make a difference, but the caution is to first make sure white is not too blue to begin with, or your right back in the boat again with your high ire's. I ran BDRV to 0, RGBS to 6, adjusted GDRV until it looks yellow w/out red or lime tint, RGBS back to 7, raised BDRV until I got white.( Credit to UMR ) As you suggested, bump up GAMB to 1, and presto !!!! Jeeeeez, the eyeballs !! Again, thanks for your invaluable insight.
You know, knucklehead me, my original question was about WSBW. Do you leave warm alone and view only in neutral, or have you cal'ed in warm with the switch off?
[ This message was edited by: loadams on 2005-05-15 23:37 ]
On 2005-05-15 23:29, loadams wrote: . . . You know, knucklehead me, my original question was about WSBW. Do you leave warm alone and view only in neutral, or have you cal'ed in warm with the switch off?
[ This message was edited by: loadams on 2005-05-15 23:37 ]
WBSW is only a "suggestion" for a group of settings, and I don't think it does the job. So I calibrate Warm (and Cool) with WBSW = 0, using the methods I already described. I'm not sure why Sony bothered to include the WBSW switch.
I'm going to mess around with the Mid table as you described over at AVS earlier. Will update you on my findings soon. Have hijacked Vivid and written the SYSM parameters as you have described and rf looks decent right off the bat. Great work !!!
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