jehill and bobf, you guys rock. I had to create a profile just to tell you that.
I've got my sony open. Its a kv-32hs500 that died this week. Well, it started about 2 weeks ago, and I didn't turn it off for 2 weeks. But I lost electricity today, and .... it was over when I got home.
Anyway. I found the D board, and found the circuit locations. For others, if I was above the TV (looking down from heaven I guess), and the screen was at the bottom of my view, and the RF/HDMI inputs were at the top of my view of things..... these circuits would be " right - middle ". About 3-6 inches from the edge of the board, near a copper wound-y thing.
I'm going to try and tackle the desoldering tomorrow.
GREAT IDEA on the 18 pin socket. That'll keep things simple if it happens again I guess.
Well, this TV is either being fixed by me, or going to the recycle bin. And this forum/posts were the answer.
What did people do before the internet?
PS You can find the manual (as mentioned) online.
Here are some helpful links at the time of writing. For those who don't know it, RAR is a program like winzip, but not winzip. Thus you have to get the rar program itself.
This was created to assist pinball machine repairs but the advice applies to any circuit boards. This is very well written and there are numerous illustrations included for clarification.
The information in that link was very helpful to me during my repair effort.
Here are some soldering tips based on my experience replacing two D-Board ICs in my KV-36XBR400.
First a caution:
- Unplug the TV and leave it unplugged for a couple of hours before working on it. Be aware that you can still get shocked after the TV is unplugged because of stored electrical energy. Be careful what you touch. I was never shocked during my repair but I was pretty careful.
And here again is the excellent "how-to" circuit board link that I provided above:
Replacing ICs can be tedious and time consuming. I had some beginner level soldering skills before attemping the repair so I didn't have too much trouble soldering in the new components. What I did find difficult was desoldering the existing ICs to remove them. Desoldering can be a pain.
Before starting, clean the top and bottom of the circuit board with an aerosol spray electronics cleaner. Solder flows much better on clean surfaces. The circuit board on my TV was incredibly dirty from years of use.
Since an IC has a particular orientation on the board, it's a good idea to make a note of this before removing them. You can ruin the IC if you install it backwards. ICs usually have a dot or a notch to identify Pin 1. I also put a dot of "White-Out" on one end of the IC and on the adjacent circuit board. You can also find the "Pin 1" location labeled on the circuit board.
For desoldering I tried two different suction type tools and I found them both to be ineffective. I tried a squeeze bulb and a spring loaded tube. I just couldn't get either of those to work effectively.
What I did have luck with was desoldering braid/wick. That worked great although using it can be time consuming. You can buy desoldering wick online or at electronics stores such as Radio Shack and Fry's Electronics.
Before desoldering, you might want to remove the body of the IC by clipping each of the legs off. This is a suggestion that a local Sony service technician and it's the technique that I used. This allows you to desolder one leg at a time and you don't have to heat multiple legs at the same time to pull the IC. You can also clip all the legs on one side to allow you to bend the body of the IC up to allow easier access to the opposite row.
Leave as much of the legs in place as possible. A taller leg will be easier to grab when you want to pull it out. Use a very small shear cutter tool that you can find in an electroincs store. I bought an $5 Xcelite 170M at my local Fry's Electronics and that worked fine. Here's what one of these shear tools looks like:
This tool needs to be small so that you can reach the legs without being blocked by the surrounding components on the board. I actually slid the rubber handles off the tool to allow for even easier access in some of the tighter spots.
After cutting the legs off, I removed as much solder as possible from the bottom of the circuit board. (The IC locations are labeled on both sides of the circuit board.)
After desoldering, I grabbed each leg on the top side with a hemostat and heated the leg from the bottom with the soldering iron. If you have a temperature controlled soldering station, I read in an electronics repair book that a temperature of 665 to 680 degrees F works well for desoldering. That's the temperature range that I used.
Be careful not to pull up any of the surrounding circuit board trace material.
After all of the legs were pulled I used soldering wick to remove any remaining solder in the pin holes. A bright light applied behind the circuit board can help you identify the pin holes where more solder needs to be removed. A darkened room can help here.
I used a head-mounted magnifying visor and that really helped with the fine soldering.
If you remove the board from the TV, take some time and label all of the connectors. That will save you a lot of trouble when you reinstall the board. I used masking tape folded back over itself for this. You may also want to take some digital photos.
Here's a photo that I took of the 18 pin MCZ3001D IC8002 on the D-Board of my KV-36XBR400 before I replaced it. As you can see, accessing the IC is not entirely easy with other nearby components:
As I noted previously, replacing IC8002 did not fix my TV. Replacing the other D-Board MCZ3001D IC, IC6501, did fix the TV. I didn't take photos of that IC but it is even more difficult to access. It's surrounded by a U-shaped aluminum heak sink which made removing the IC more difficult.
Before soldering in the replacement IC, seriously consider installing an 18 pin socket. This has several benefits. First, it eliminates any risk of overheating the IC when soldering it into place. Second, it makes a future replacement of the same IC a snap. Just pop the old one out and plug in a new one. Finally, a socket allows you to test fit the IC before installing the socket. This will allow you to bend the IC legs, if needed, to fit the pin holes without having to deal with the cramped confines of the D-Board. I had to slightly bend outwards the legs of both ICs that I installed. These sockets are less than $1.00 each and you can find them at Radio Shack and other electronics stores.
For the solder itself I bought a roll of very thin, 0.032" diameter, 60/40 rosin-core solder. The thin diameter works well for the fine work required. I also bought a bottle of liquid rosin soldering flux meant for electronics. I found this at Sears (Sears Product Number 9-80063). I applied the flux to clean the pin holes and to help the solder flow.
Bob
[ This message was edited by: BobF on 2008-10-08 10:20 ]
I have a 36XBR250 and it is totally dead. Seems from all the postings it could be the D-Board. Was wondering how you diagnosed what the final problem was and how you fixed it.
Thanks
On 2004-03-15 14:53, Marauder2k wrote:
Hello everyone! I'm having the same problem as sanbee. LED/Standby continuous blinking red light 5 times. I've been able to power cycle the 36XBR450 successfully twice and just left the unit turned on. A couple of months later the unit just shut off. Now I can't get it back on no matter how many time I power cycle this. From all of the postings there seems to be allot of talk regarding the infamous D-board. Has anyone with this symptom been able to determine if it was a defective D-board or simply a defective CRT?
Thanks again on any input you may have.
Ed.
p.s. Sign me up for the defective D-board list as well. Thanks
On 2004-01-30 21:23, sanbee wrote:
On 2004-01-15 07:15, dipersp wrote: Put me on the list of D boards as well. My XBR was about 1 year and 11 months old. Starting losing vertical hold, then finally the set would go out due to high-voltage issues. My service center came out and I was around $700 parts and labor. Luckily, the part was available. Now I'm fighting with Sony as I think spending this much on a "new" "high-end" TV is ridiculous.
If you're someone that's had a D board go bad, could you please contact me via email? I'd like to start compiling a list of people and see what we can do about this.
I Live in Downingtown and was just told today that I need a whole new chasis for about $1,000. Another service man told me I needed a board that will cost about $450. I will be in touch with sony folks tomorrow. My KV-36XBR400 is 2 years 9 months old and while I love the picture I can no longer turn the set on. I get the 5 flashes no picture or sound. When it first started I had to try 10-20 cycles of on off before it would power up. While the Eagles were in the playoffs I never shut the set off. After the miserable loss to the Panthers I shut it off and has not been on since. I also want the e-mail or phone number that was used to get the partsfor free. Please post for all thanks.
[ This message was edited by: sanbee on 2004-01-30 21:30 ]
Before I read your post, I actually saw the desoldering braid/wick and picked one up. So that worked out well.
I actually bought a couple extra 18-pin banks, to practice resoldering those. They were $.59, and a small board was $2. I think $4 is worth a little practice.
I'm off to the races.
The "is labeled on both sides" (IC) was a great tip.
And about how/why to cut away the chip, before the desoldering. Luckily I already have a mini-mini pair of pliers.
I'll try to take some after-shots when I'm done. (If I'm successful).
Rosin Core Solder, .32 diameter 64-017 E (The RS guy told me to get this one instead of the one I had, when I saw I was doing Circuit Board Stuff). I think this was $3 or $4.
18 Pin Low Profile IC Socket 276-1992 <$1 Qty of 2
A couple observation.
15 Watt was PLENTY for this job. I'd recommend NOT doing it with anything higher. And be frugal with the amount of time you hold the iron to the board.
Desoldering: I ended up not doing the snip-snip thing. With the wick, I was able to complete clear out the old solder, and pull the chip with the first pull.
The second chip I had to re-desolder 2 holes, but got it out.
The mini-pliers did come in handy here.
When I pulled the first one out, I was like 'Hurray, I think this is going to work".
I will strongly suggest the wick for this job, esp if you're only into soldering for rare instances. You basically put the wick onto the old solder, near the pin. And you heat the wick, while touching the pin. The solder then runs onto the copper. You get 5 feet, I think I used 7-8 inches. You have to keep moving the wick as you get solder on it. I usually cut away used wick after I used about 1 inch. The wick gets hot, so be ready.
I inserted the new 18 pin IC slots and soldered them in. Soldering was easy. I practiced on the extra board I got from RS. I didnt' need the extra IC sockets, I practiced on the old chips.
I actually had the TV on its face and was able to do the job with the board in a vertical position. Again, be frugal with how long you have the iron on the board. Don't overheat the board.
BE PATIENT WITH THE DESOLDER. It took about 30 minutes to desolder both chips. About 12 minutes to solder them back. And I haven't soldered in 5 years.
Here's a tip. If you desolder and the chip doesn't come out, don't over-force it. Put a bright light on one side, and look thru the holes on the other side. (Have the room dimly lit also). Then you'll see which pins are clearly/cleanly desoldered, and 1 or 2 holes you may have missed.
Wow, I'm in about $16 now, and the chips are probably <$20. $36 for a repair, that sony wants $500.
I'll report later if it works. But I'm hopeful.
The IC Pin Socket was such a good idea that could have been easily overlooked.
If you're reading all these posts, and try to do this repair, and it works, take a few minutes to register and post a SUCCESS or FAILURE.
Give back to the internet, it treats us well sometimes.
Hi Sholliday I also have a kv-36hs500, what chassis is it? is not that i have any problem with it, but i'm prepairing for future faults that may show up. you say that it's not same ic. try to discover what ic is it, and if is same board of the XBR the D. Please since you have it opend try to give me as much info as possible.thanks in advance I am Frank and live in the Providense area.
I wanted to see if the A-board IC6001 would be worth it to swap out, since I have everything apart.
I can't find it.
I found an IC903 but that's not the one I think.
That's the only 18 pinner I can find.
It is hidden? Am I eye challenged?
The PDF mentions the IC6001, but heck if I can find it.
In the KV-36XBR400, the IC6001 location is at the back of the A-Board on the left side, if you're standing behind the TV. If you were looking down on the board I would guess that it was in something like a 10 O'Clock position.
And thanks for adding all the excellent desoldering tips!
It's great that you were able to pull the ICs without clipping all the legs. That was a big time-saver.
Best of luck when you plug in the ICs!
Bob
[ This message was edited by: BobF on 2007-01-28 14:18 ]
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