|
Who's Online |
| Visitors: | 193 | | Members: | 2 |
| Total of: | 195 users |
| |
| Member | Logged | | Sony.xbr | 6.4 min |  | | jttar | 11.5 min |  |
| Users will be removed if they logged out or are inactive for 35 minutes |
| Visitors: | 794 | | Members: | 1 |
| Total of: | 795 online users |
| November 14, 2012, 2:44 pm |
You are Anonymous user. Register for free by clicking here.
Inbox Log in to check your private message
|
|
 | |
 This thread topic spans 16 pages - You are currently on page 8 NEXT>> (1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 ) |
|
|
| Author |
XBR 400 Dead! Help! |
BobF
 Rank: Sonyphile 
Joined: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 643
From:
 | Posted: 2007-01-27 23:25
shollday,
If you haven't already, make note of the proper orientation of the ICs in the sockets since it is possible to install them backwards. I used white-out to mark the ICs and the adjacent section of the circuit board.
Bob
 
|
|
sholliday
 Rank: Sony Fan 
Joined: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 9
From: NC USA
 | Posted: 2007-01-28 11:59
Ok, I got the KV-32HS500 manual: http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/25423/Sony_KV-42DRC800,%20KV-32HS500,%20KV-32HV600,%20KV-34DRC500.html
Or http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=KV-32HS500+site%3Aeserviceinfo.com
(you have to download all 7 parts by clicking 0 -- then 1 -- then 2 --etc --then 6
In that manual you can do a search for MCZ3001D and you'll find only 2 references, which are the same 2 "d-board" references above.
So I don't think the KV-32HS500 has the third chip.
..
Also, the bottom of the board has the "1" pin marked, and if you go to BobF's tutorial url link, you'll can determine how to find the 1 pin location on the chip itself. Thanks BobF for that really good tutorial.
..
Ok...I'll post a followup when I get the chips. Will it be in time for the Superbowl? Only UPS knows.
 
|
BobF
 Rank: Sonyphile 
Joined: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 643
From:
 | Posted: 2007-01-28 15:05
Also, the bottom of the board has the "1" pin marked, and if you go to BobF's tutorial url link, you'll can determine how to find the 1 pin location on the chip itself. Thanks BobF for that really good tutorial.
Thanks for the pin 1 identifying information. I added that information to my "Soldering Tips" post.
And may the UPS truck arrive before the Super Bowl! 
Bob
 
|
sholliday
 Rank: Sony Fan 
Joined: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 9
From: NC USA
 | Posted: 2007-02-02 00:06
Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding !!!!
Ok. I got the chips in the mail. 10 minutes later I pressed the "ON" button.
And ....:::drum roll::::
Sony is working again!!
Wow, what a great feeling.
I can't tell you how grateful I am for all the help and info.
It kinda makes you mad knowing Sony probably knows its a couple of dumb chips, and won't fix these suckers for <$100. Chips that cost me $6 or so each. Which probably cost them a few dimes. Oh well.
Superbowl in HDTV, here I come.
Thanks again. If you find the info on this post useful, please post your success story....
 
|
BobF
 Rank: Sonyphile 
Joined: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 643
From:
 | Posted: 2007-02-02 00:56
That's fantastic news!
Congratulations on the successful repair!
I know exactly how you felt when the TV fired up for the first time.
Hopefully our experiences will help others that might attempt a repair.
Bob
[ This message was edited by: BobF on 2007-02-02 08:42 ]
 
|
joup4
 Rank: Sony Buff 
Joined: Feb 05, 2007
Posts: 12
From: Lewiston, NY
 | Posted: 2007-02-05 08:33
Wow, great info in this thread!!
I watched the Superbowl yesterday, 02/04/07, and tried to turn on my Sony KV-36XBR400 this Monday morning and got all the classic symptons described in this thread...no picture, got sound but goes out after a few seconds, then the blinking red LED which currently is blinking 7X...now 4X. I unplugged, got online, and found this wonderful thread. This set is about 5 years old and has performed flawlessly up until now. I shelled out $2500 for this set and stand, and would hate to lose such a fine product over something as negligible as replacing IC's on a PCB.
At first I thought the temperature in my house had something to do with it as we're currently experiencing bitter cold weather and my heating system can't keep up...low 60's in my house. But everything is pointing to this IC6501 (D-Board).
Are there anymore success stories on this procedure? How long do you leave the set unplugged to safely attempt this procedure? What is actually involved in removing the board itself...mounting screws, plug-ins, etc.?
Any help will be greatly appreciated as this semi-retired guy has a limited income.
Thanks in advance, Joe
 
|
BobF
 Rank: Sonyphile 
Joined: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 643
From:
 | Posted: 2007-02-05 11:28
Joe,
First let me note that your TV failing right after the Superbowl is direct violation of Murphy's Law. Typically they fail right before the Superbowl. 
Anyway here are some thoughts on your situation with the caution that I am not a service tech.
Your problem may not be IC6501. You really can't diagnose the actual cause with the blink codes. It just points a service technician in a certain direction. So be aware that any repair attempt without some board level testing is a bit of a gamble.
When I repaired my 36XBR400, I basically gambled that one of the three MCZ3001D ICs had failed. First I replaced IC8002 and that had no effect. Then I replaced IC6501 and that fixed the TV. If that had not worked I planned on replacing the third MCZ3001D located on the A-Board (IC6001). But I didn't do any board level diagnostics.
But do a forum only search for "XBR400" and "four blinks" or "four flashes" and see what others have experienced. (I actually didn't get a diagnostic code with my TV since the blink pattern was non-repeating.)
As for other DIY repair success stories, I really haven't seen too many online. Most of the ones I've found are in this thread.
On the shock hazard question, I left my TV unplugged for several hours before working on it but there still may be a chance that you could get shocked. Perhaps one of the repair techs on this forum could comment on that.
As for removing the board itself, it's much like the process involved in removing a motherboard from a PC. But I didn't actually remove the D-Board for my repair. I removed the entire lower chassis which holds the D-Board and the A-Board. I did my soldering on the D-Board while it was still mounted in the chassis. Sony designed this chassis so that it slides right out of the TV. There are many connectors that you'll need to disconnect before doing that.
See my repair report on Page 9 of this thread for more details. I also included a list of other repair options that I considered. And on Page 10 I posted some soldering tips and lessons learned.
Finally, these problems can be sensitive to temperature. I read one report where someone was able to get his XBR400 to turn on by heating the D-Board with a blow dryer. Others have suggested that this could be used a a crude diagnostic tool. I tried this without success on my TV.
Good Luck!
Bob
[ This message was edited by: BobF on 2007-02-12 11:17 ]
 
|
joup4
 Rank: Sony Buff 
Joined: Feb 05, 2007
Posts: 12
From: Lewiston, NY
 | Posted: 2007-02-05 15:00
Thanks for your reply Bob.
I called up the only TV guy here in the village and of course he said it has to be diagnosed. I did ask him if he repairs just PCB's and he said yes. So if I brought him the board and buy the parts, he would do the board repair work for me.
I understand this is all a guessing-game-way of doing things, but there are so many identical situations here that the %'s look good to me. Is there any unsoldering needed to be done to remove this board?
I did try the hair dryer routine but not knowing the exact location of the board...proved to be futile. I will wait for this weather to break and when my house gets back up to normal temperature, I will see if this problem still exists. In the meantime, I still got my trusty old dinosaur...the RCA COLORTRAK 2000 !!
Thanks, Joe
 
|
BobF
 Rank: Sonyphile 
Joined: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 643
From:
 | Posted: 2007-02-05 16:18
On 2007-02-05 15:00, joup4 wrote:
I called up the only TV guy here in the village and of course he said it has to be diagnosed. I did ask him if he repairs just PCB's and he said yes. So if I brought him the board and buy the parts, he would do the board repair work for me.
That's a great idea. I actually tried this, although it didn't work out in my case. I brought my chassis to a local electronics technician and he agreed to remove and replace all three ICs for $45. I thought that was reasonable and I asked him to go ahead.
Unfortunately, he spent about 45 minutes attempting to remove the first IC in the IC8002 location without any luck. He was using soldering wick and he was unable to get enough solder out to free the IC. He finally gave up and apologized for his inability to complete the job.
But I'm guessing that nearly any experienced technician could tackle this job.
Be sure to get an agreement on the labor cost before you commit to the service. And seriously consider the installation of 18 pin sockets. That will make future IC replacements a snap as no soldering would be required.
Here's the thread where I posted that update:
http://agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=26401&forum=34&start=0&select_page_number=1
It has more details on my repair process and it also details another forum member's IC replacement that, unfortunately, did not work out.
You could also send your D-Board off to a place like tristatemodule.com and they'll repair your board for $150 plus shipping:
http://tristatemodule.com/
I probably would have sent my D-Board there if my own repair attempt failed.
There's no soldering involved in removing the D-Board. I did have trouble disconnecting the two red wires that connect to the flyback unit on the D-Board. I just could not get either of these wires to release. I ended up cutting one of them so I had to splice it back together later. The second red wire ran up to the "anode cap" on the top of the CRT and I just disconnected it at that end.
Be sure to label all the connections. And you might even want to take some photos.
Bob
[ This message was edited by: BobF on 2007-02-22 14:27 ]
[ This message was edited by: BobF on 2007-11-15 19:33 ]
 
|
joup4
 Rank: Sony Buff 
Joined: Feb 05, 2007
Posts: 12
From: Lewiston, NY
 | Posted: 2007-02-11 15:30
Well Bob, I have had my Sony off (still plugged in however) since my last post here and been using my old trusty RCA Colortrak 2000. I tried turning the Sony on today and WAHLA it came on 1st attempt!! It's not a fix but all my other equipment is hooked thru it, so I'll just leave it on until the weather breaks here. The reason I say that is, my house was a little warmer today with a heat wave in the 20's outside! So I now suspect that temperature is indeed an issue here. I'll keep you posted on further developments.
Joe
 
|
BobF
 Rank: Sonyphile 
Joined: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 643
From:
 | Posted: 2007-02-11 17:42
Joe,
Thanks for the update.
If your TV behaves like mine did, at some point it will stop working altogether, regardless of the ambient temperature. But who knows? 
Good luck with it!
Bob
 
|
bdf
 Rank: Sony Fan 
Joined: Feb 19, 2007
Posts: 3
From: DFW
 | Posted: 2007-02-19 11:10
I have a 36XBR400 and had the 4-7 blinks issue, did the unplug while its on wait 30 secs and turn it on and it worke the TV ws on for a few days till I turned it off.
Well I followed the instructions bought, the ICs and sockets and replaced them, but now the tv does not have the same blinks, it seems to blink more lke 7-10 times and then the light stays on, no picture no sound. At first it made the same sounds like it woas about to power up, but after messing with it it just clicks like once, no more acting like it is going to come on.
Any ideas what I did wrong? I did all 3 ICs.
Thanks
 
|
BobF
 Rank: Sonyphile 
Joined: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 643
From:
 | Posted: 2007-02-19 15:57
On 2007-02-19 11:10, bdf wrote: I have a 36XBR400 and had the 4-7 blinks issue, did the unplug while its on wait 30 secs and turn it on and it worke the TV ws on for a few days till I turned it off.
Well I followed the instructions bought, the ICs and sockets and replaced them, but now the tv does not have the same blinks, it seems to blink more lke 7-10 times and then the light stays on, no picture no sound. At first it made the same sounds like it woas about to power up, but after messing with it it just clicks like once, no more acting like it is going to come on.
Any ideas what I did wrong? I did all 3 ICs.
Thanks
There is the very real possibility that none of the three MCZ3001D ICs were causing your problem.
Without any board level diagnostics, replacing those ICs is a gamble.
Power up problems can be caused my other problems.
Did you ever get a copy of the common D-board failures from forum member jehill?
See this thread:
http://agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=26985&forum=34&keyword2=electronics
Be sure to send him the request via a private message. Don't request a copy in that thread. The service bulletin covers several Sony models including the 36XBR400. Regarding the initial "4-7 blinks issue", did you get a repeating or non-repeating blink pattern? In other words, did it blink a certain number of times, pause, and then repeat the sequence again? If the blink sequence does not repeat it does not represent a diagnostic code.
And did the number of blinks vary between 4 and 7 blinks randomly or did it change over time?
Exactly how many times is it blinking now and is that a repeating or non-repeating sequence?
Did you disconnect any connectors during the repair? If so, you might want to double-check all of those.
And did the desoldering and soldering go smoothly? Another possibility is that something was damaged during the repair.
Finally, regarding the following comment:
At first it made the same sounds like it woas about to power up, but after messing with it it just clicks like once, no more acting like it is going to come on.
You might have heard the deguassing feature and that it is not always triggered when you turn the TV on. So not hearing that sound is not an indication, by itself, that something is wrong.
Good luck!
Bob
[ This message was edited by: BobF on 2007-02-19 16:21 ]
 
|
bdf
 Rank: Sony Fan 
Joined: Feb 19, 2007
Posts: 3
From: DFW
 | Posted: 2007-02-21 15:29
Well initailly it seems to have the same symptoms as everyone else. It would blink 4-7 times then the light woudl go off. It now seems to blink several times, and then the light stays on. No repeating, then or now.
We did of course take the boards out so we unhooked everything, but rehooked it, we also had a couple of holes that the traces were bad, but we tapped wires on to ensure they had a connection.
Not sure what to do from here, guess we bricked it even worse.
 
|
BobF
 Rank: Sonyphile 
Joined: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 643
From:
 | Posted: 2007-02-21 16:37
One forum member actually replaced the ICs without removing the D-Board from the TV. He just rotated the chassis up into the "service position".
I couldn't quite manage that so I removed the entire chassis from the TV. But I did leave the D-Board mounted in the chassis.
Well since the blink codes are of the non-repeating type, they're apparently not diagnostic codes. See recent posts by forum member BUDMAN for more information on this.
But count the number of flashes and post that result here. Perhaps one of the other forum members could still make something of that.
Are you positive that the ICs are completely inserted into the sockets you installed?
And you might want to touch up all of your new solder connections to make sure that they're all good.
For other options, such as sending the D-Board off for repair, look for my repair report on Page 9 of this thread:
http://agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=1121&forum=34&start=80&select_page_number=9
Good luck!
Bob
[ This message was edited by: BobF on 2007-02-22 14:30 ]
 
|
|
|
|
| Advance
Features |
 |
|
|
|
|
|