Joined: Mar 13, 2003
Posts: 13823
From: Sewell, NJ
Posted: 2010-07-02 18:18
I would assume that its a design issue. There is nothing wrong with the diodes used. However, any silicon diode would probably work fine. Numerous members have replaced the diodes to restore operation of their sets. I would try it myself.
Joined: Mar 13, 2003
Posts: 13823
From: Sewell, NJ
Posted: 2010-07-03 18:30
A silicon diode is a silicon diode. The characteristics are unique. Please be advised that installation of a replacement other than the original may be difficult for D6116, which I am pretty sure is a very small and surface mounted. Just go to Radio Shack and ask them for silicon diodes. Anything that they show you should work. The problem will be installing the replacements.
I too had the 9 blink problem with my KDP-51WS655. After reviewing all of the old posts starting back in 2007 and up to the present, I decided to tackle the problem. I first resoldered D6301. Worked for a day and then same problem. In the meantime I was trying to find out specs on the D6301 & D6116 Diodes. Could not really find a good cross reference other than the D6301 was rated at 200Volts & 1 Amp. The "chip" D6116 Diode located on the bottom/conductor side of the G board, was rated at 100Volts & 250 MA. I decided to replace only the D6301 and substituted an NTE 1N2004 Silicon Diode from my local HFE Electronics Store. They deal in New/Used Equipment, Cable,Components, Etc. They also stock lots of surplus parts. I bought 2 of the 1N2004 Diodes @.25 each. Replaced this D6301 Diode and my set is back up and running. I have previous TV/Radio/Stereo Repair knowledge & capability from around 30 years ago. I am 70. Saved probably $400 -$500. Needless to say I am a Happy Camper. Thank you Jehill for all of your answers to posts. Thank you to others who also took up the challenge to fix their own sets.
I don't understand the answer on sophm's question how to substitute a diode. The answer "A silicon diode is a silicon diode" is very strange in my opinion. Diodes differ in kind (rectifiers, signal diodes, Zenerdiodes) as in other parameters. Rectifiers for example are made for different maximum inverted voltages and maximum forward currents, but also the time the diode needs to recover is important. For that reason a certain diode may seem a good replacement based on voltage and current, but not on timing. Mains rectifiers are dealing with 50 or 60 Hertz, while diodes in switch mode power supplies must be capable of rectifying voltages with frequencies up to several kHz. If a slow diode is used in such a circuit, it would not survive. These circuits need fast-recovery diodes. Also the voltage in forward direction is important. If a Schottky-diode (with a low forward voltage) is replaced by a non-Schottky diode, the forward voltage of the diode will be higher. This higher forward voltage results in a higher dissipation, causing the diode to become hotter than a Schottky-diode.
The mentioned 1N2004 is a Zenerdiode of 300V and a maximum power dissipation of 150mW. So this diode could be replaced by any silicon diode? That sounds strange to me, because why has the designer used a diode which is intended to start to conduct when there is a voltage > 300V in reverse direction.
All that I meant was that if you walk into Radio Shack and ask for a silicon diode, what they show you is likely to have a reverse breakdown rating of at least 600V and will work as a substitute for the above diodes. Since D6116 is a surface mounted device, replacing it with a non-surface mounted device might be a challenge for some.
From the posting of oldphoneman I understood that he replaced his D6301 with an 1N2004, a 300V Zenerdiode, being a replacement for a 200V/1A rectifying diode.
I'm not familiar with the concerning TV-model, so I couldn't speak from experience, but in the context of your previous written reply it made my confusion greater.
Now you listed the types of the diodes, and the 10ERB20-TB5 is also in European models a well-known source of problems. This is a fast-switching Schottky diode with a recovery time of only 60 nanoseconds, which is often used in the primary (feedback) part of standby-PSU's. Many times a complete dead set, or a fast blinking standby LED is caused by a leaking or shortened 10ERB20-TB5. Of course there are many possible substitutes for this diode, as long as you remember to use a fast-recovery type so it can deal with the high frequencies used in switch mode PSU's.
The other diode is even much more faster and has a recovery time of only 4 nanoseconds, so it could be used in circuits operating nearly into the GHz frequencies. As I saw it's physical lenght is only 1.8 millimeter, also the mechanical side of replacement could be a challenge.
[ This message was edited by: mbt_junkyard on 2010-07-12 20:27 ]
On 2010-07-12 20:24, mbt_junkyard wrote: OK, this makes it much more clearly John.
From the posting of oldphoneman I understood that he replaced his D6301 with an 1N2004, a 300V Zenerdiode, being a replacement for a 200V/1A rectifying diode.
I'm not familiar with the concerning TV-model, so I couldn't speak from experience, but in the context of your previous written reply it made my confusion greater.
Now you listed the types of the diodes, and the 10ERB20-TB5 is also in European models a well-known source of problems. This is a fast-switching Schottky diode with a recovery time of only 60 nanoseconds, which is often used in the primary (feedback) part of standby-PSU's. Many times a complete dead set, or a fast blinking standby LED is caused by a leaking or shortened 10ERB20-TB5. Of course there are many possible substitutes for this diode, as long as you remember to use a fast-recovery type so it can deal with the high frequencies used in switch mode PSU's.
The other diode is even much more faster and has a recovery time of only 4 nanoseconds, so it could be used in circuits operating nearly into the GHz frequencies. As I saw it's physical lenght is only 1.8 millimeter, also the mechanical side of replacement could be a challenge.
[ This message was edited by: mbt_junkyard on 2010-07-14 13:14 ]
I had a KDP-51WS655 with the 9 blink/no power on issue. First I tried re-soldering D6301 & D6116 and it worked, but the issue came back a few weeks later. I re-soldered again with no luck. Interestingly at this stage it can be powered on by entering service menu. On remote control press "display", "5", "volume up", "power". To reset everything press "8" "ent". The same sequence with volume down instead of up showsa list of errors and number of occurrences. Here's how I fixed it
Replacing D6301 with 1N4007 from Radio Shack 25 pack of diodes fixed mine, $3. I didn't touch D6116.
"Rectifier Diodes (25-Pack)" Radio Shack Catalog # 276-1653 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062589
I've read that you can also replace D6116 with the same 1N4007 diode, I didn't need to...
Look at the pack and make sure there's a 1N4007 in there. I think my pack has a few.
No telling how long it will last, but it's only $3 and you'll have extra diodes.
For search engine:
Diode cross reference Rectifier diode 1N4007 replaces 10ERB20-TB5 aka 650056721 aka D6301 on Sony G board 9 blink power on issue for Sony KDP-51WS655
[ This message was edited by: askjake on 2010-12-18 14:13 ]
On 2010-07-02 02:10, Sophm wrote: So what with this 9 blink problem (Zero Crossing Detector) everyone seems to have that involves them 2 Diodes on the G Board.
What I was wondering is why does D6301 and D6116 on the G Board seem to fail ?
Has anyone one found ones to substitute them so the problem wont happen again ?
For anyone interested, I purchased the replacement diodes direct from Sony. Tax and shipping cost more than the diodes. I hope this remedy works. Really can't afford a new TV. PS. whatever happens, thanks to you guys at Agouraquest
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