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View topic - Kf 60we61 thermal fuse

Kf 60we61 thermal fuse

This Forum is questions on any problems you could have with your Sony Televsion set (i.e. Sony Wega grainess problem, cable problems, so forth)

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by tanooki84 » Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:44 pm

Hello I'm new to this site and am finding my way around still.

I tested the thermal fuse (the section i unclipped and removed from the fan) for continuity on the two metal prongs and it beeped telling me that the fuse was not blown and it was making a complete circuit.
Next,
On the g board when i test the CN1605 connection  Pin 1 (black lead) and Pin 7 (Red)  the off readings are 4.89 (DCV 20 setting on my multi meter)

what should it read when the TV is off AND unplugged. the readings  turned on is 17 V right?

NOW, what supplies that power to the CN1605 connector
   one servive tech from an old blog said

    "the 17v seems to come from the A board off of q8510 and q8004"
And those are tiny transitors on the underside of the A board
I believe they are spot welded on too

or
is it an IC3405 prob on the C2 board?


I have a good amount of Sony repairs under my belt
Such as replacing a polarizer in an optical block
And soldering in new ic's to fix a Sony with bad convergence


Thanks













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by jehill » Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:33 pm

Welcome to Agoraquest!  The 17V appearing at CN1605 on the G1 board is supplied by full wave rectifier D1623 between T1603 pins 12 and 16.  The input to T1603 is switching regulator IC1601.  All of these parts are on the G1 (power supply) board.

For your information, the thermal fuse is actually a bi-metallic switch.  If the setpoint is too low, the switch is defective.  It's normal for there to be continuity across the switch.

Just out of curiosity, is the lamp door warped or deformed?  The real problem could be a clogged or defective fan.  You may find the Television Troubleshooting Information Package "Lamp door warped and possible no power condition/KDFxxWE655, KFxxWE610, KFxxWE620" of value as it walks you through fan replacement.  For more information, look for it in the  "Television Troubleshooting Information Package" thread in the "Frequently Asked Questions for Sony Products" forum.
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by tanooki84 » Fri Jul 13, 2012 4:32 am

thank you for your reply jehill, i have read a lot of your posts and have found them very useful.

this is where i am at now with the unit:

6 green then 6 red error flashed and continues to flash 6 red.
TV will not turn on any more

i have both optical block out and the all the boards on the "tray" behind the a/v panel.
  (basically total disassembled)

the door to the lamp closes completely and the plastic "arm" makes contact with the metal prong that is through the hole above the screw. also it screws in flush

both fans have been totally disassembled and perfectly cleaned and are now back together.

My next move is to loosely reassemble it and test the current of the CN1605 with the power on to see if it reaches the 17v.

but i am hazy on how to do that.

what i believe to do is unplug the wire from the CN1605 (which is orange and leads to the optical block) and place my black lead on pin 1 (ground) and my red lead on pin 7 or 8 (both marked 17v)

then plug in and turn on the unit.  the muti-meter (set to DCV 20) should read 17 in a working unit correct?
Or
do i leave the CN1605 cable (to optical block) plugged in and test the volts from the solder joints under the CN1605 connector?

which move is correct or is it not how to test the power to the CN1605 at all?
thank you for your response.
we can do this we will prevail

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by jehill » Fri Jul 13, 2012 6:57 am

Your next move is correct!  Go for it!  Just be careful not to short anything out.  The typical reason that there is no 17V output from the G1 board is that the thermal switch is open interrupting power to the AC relay, RY1601 on the G1 board.  You might try checking for continuity between CN8014 pins 5 and 6 where the thermal switch is connected to the A board.  While you have continuity across the thermal switch, there may be an open circuit elsewhere.
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by tanooki84 » Fri Jul 13, 2012 6:59 am

with the connector cable plugged in or unplugged?
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by tanooki84 » Fri Jul 13, 2012 8:30 am

OK

i put it all back together outside of the unit with all the grounds attached and lampdoor shut and lamp screwed in its place

i unplugged the pin at the CN1605 connector

placed the black lead on pin 1 and my red lead at pin 8.
set my meter to DCV 20 (my DCV options are 200mV, 2, 20, 200, and 1000)

plugged it in and turned unit on .

the meter read 1.00

fans do not turn on.  (whether CN1605 wire is in place or not)
clicking from two black components on power board can be heard.

i tried to get a lamp door error by powering unit on with the lampdoor open.
the "6Green 6red then 6red 6red" error continued letting me believe that no power is getting to the lamp or lampdoor sensors.

I cannot get the C2 board off my mind b/c thats were the +B OVP error occurs.
im having trouble removing the metal case that it is in to get to the IC3405

PLUS!!!
I got the unit from a lady who had it repaired twice by sony.

and when i look at the C2 board there is scotch tape on one PCB Supporter so it holds to the AU board better (!)  and on the top only G and B connectors have wires leaving a third unused/unmarked connector. the schematics show THREE wires on the top of the C2 board.
does the 60WE610 not have 3

can you help explain any of that!!!? lol

thanks











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by jehill » Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:50 am

The disassembly drawing shows three cables plugged into the top of the C2 board.  Two are identical and the third has a different type connector.  Assuming that B = blue and G = green, I would expect a R = red cable.

A 1V reading at CN1605 with wires removed indicates that their is a G2 board problem or that the board is shutdown to protect it.
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by tanooki84 » Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:08 am

did you mean G1? there is no G2 board according to service manual.

the two top cords on C2 lead to optical block lcds the third on the side of C2 is on schematics only as part of the DIC block.
the schematics two two identical wires next to a third different one.

my c2 board has the 3 top slots in the diagram but nothing plugged into the port thats different.

BUT


it does have one more wire on the side that is identical to the two on top.
it is short and connects to the DIC block

I dont think the c2 is the problem, im just curious why the scotch tape was on the c2 board.
what would a sony service guy have done?

but i am homing in on the IC1601 Switching regulator b/c that leads to the C2 and causes IC3405 to be low (or dropped?) and not turn on the set.

I tested for continuity on IC1601 and pin 2 did not react (beep or whatever!! lol) to pin 4 of PH1601 after passing R1647 and C1639 (where it did beep).

did i just find the problem?


thank you for your time.







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by jehill » Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:30 am

You can't troubleshoot IC1601 with a continuity checker.  You need to measure voltages and compare them with the schematics.  Your best bet at this point is to replace the G1 board or seek professional help.
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by tanooki84 » Wed Jul 18, 2012 12:32 pm

With the unit plugged in and turned on i presume.
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