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Agoraquest • View topic - DA333ES Dead or Protector (Fan)

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View topic - DA333ES Dead or Protector (Fan)

DA333ES Dead or Protector (Fan)

This forum addresses the need for Sony instruction or service manuals. This is where you can request or display any Sony instruction/service manual. For the next week, related manual topics will be moving over to this forum location.

Moderator: jttar

by greedj » Sun Oct 21, 2007 11:45 am

I am posting this to help out anyone who it try to fix thier receiver. This unit fails because of heat, put it on a shelf by itself with at least 4 inches of clearence on top. Never place anything under of over this unit. Here are the common issues. Symptom: DEAD, no power, No internal blown fuses. Solution: The power supply board has bad capacitors. Most likely c903 is bad (1000uf 16v). The schematic has a misprint and lists it as a 100uf 16v but the part on the board is a 1000uf 16v. Power supply voltages will appear normal in this situation but it will force IC901 to hold pin 8 low (Emergency STOP) causing all the CPUs to be held in reset causing a DEAD Unit.Symptom: Protector flashes, or speakers cut in and out or crackle.              Possible blown fuses.              Solution: Check, replace or resolder IC501, IC601 on the main board and IC701 on the rear amp board. These are the preamp ICs and they get very HOT. They really sould be attached to a heat sink but Sony engineers did not think so. They get so hot that they will discolor the circuit board and unsolder/cold-solder thier pins. They are cheap so I would just replace all 3 of them.This is not very likely but also check the main power outputs ICs for shorts to ground, sometimes a failed preamp can take out one or more of these chips. Symptom: Cold solder joints causing all kinds of weird issues including the ones above.Solution: Resolder IC501, IC502, IC902, IC951, IC952, IC955, and D955 on the main board. (The D955 pins are hard to get to with the board installed but it can be done with some skill. Removing the board is a royal pain and not usually required.)Resolder IC701 on the rear amp board. Symptom: This unit gets to darn hot, how can I cool it down?This is a "Use at your own risk" solution:Buy a high quality 12 volt 120mm computer fan. Pick a fan that has a low RPM between 700 and 1200 RPM or you may hear it running when the receiver is on. You do not need very much airflow to keep this unit near room temp.Ok I have a fan but how do I install it and where do I hook it up?You will see an unused screw hole in the main heat sink on the side in the center just above the rear amp board. I took a L bracket left over from some vertical blinds I took down, it was the exact size i needed and had holes already drilled but you can make your own bracket.I mounted the bracket to the heatsink and then mounted the fan to the bracket. The fan is now hovering over the main board and will blow UP once power is applied. Oh, move and tie any wires down that may interfere with the fan blades! The fan wires will be connected to the AC Board. Locate D907 right next to the AC relay (Yes, I am going to steal a little power from the relay circuit). You are going to solder the fan wires to each pin of D907. D907 is a diode, diodes are marked with a stripe near one of the pins. The board will also have a symbol similar to --D|-- or -->|--on it. The arrow in the symbol points to the RED, positive pin. If you do not have a symbol on the board, the pin closest to the stripe on the diode will be the RED positive wire to the fan. The other pin of the diode will be black or negative wire.  The fan will be connected like this:                D907                Diode                -->|--               ^     ^  Back wire_|     |_Red wireThis fan will turn on and off with the power switch .Cooling this unit with a fan will give you many years of problem free use! Sony put a fan in the STR-DA555ES.

2016 Update:
Protector (Fan) Flashing:

Fuse Blown - F913 - 3.15a
Faulty IC 956 (Might be mislabeled as IC 902 on the board. It has a large heat sink and is next to IC 955)
IC902 BA033T Sony Part Number 8-759-445-59 3.3 volt regulator 1amp.
I purchased mine from Digikey part number BA033T-ND for less than $5.
Last edited by greedj on Wed May 18, 2016 8:51 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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by allwcl » Sun Oct 21, 2007 7:54 pm

My Brother has this Model ... will save this ... thanks for the info.   And yes heat is a problem with many electronic devices.  I had to add a fan to a few DVD players that made electro-caps go bad.

Al
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by CPUNeck » Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:51 am

WOW, this was exactly what the problem was with my DA555es.


Symptom: DEAD, no power, No internal blown fuses

Solution: Thepower supply board has bad capacitors. Most likely c903 is bad (1000uf16v). The schematic has a misprint and lists it as a 100uf 16v but thepart on the board is a 1000uf 16v. Power supply voltages will appearnormal in this situation but it will force IC901 to hold pin 8 low(Emergency STOP) causing all the CPUs to be held in reset causing aDEAD Unit.


While I was waiting for some other suggestions for sh*&'s and gigles I looked for the c903 cap and BAMMMM, you could see the innards oozing out of the bottom.  I didn't have the exact replacement on hand, but was told here that the 16v1200uF would be fine. So far so good.

THANKS for the GREAT info, just in time!  
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by greedj » Sat Dec 29, 2007 9:41 am


On 2007-12-29 10:51, CPUNeck wrote:
WOW, this was exactly what the problem was with my DA555es.


Symptom: DEAD, no power, No internal blown fuses

Solution: Thepower supply board has bad capacitors. Most likely c903 is bad (1000uf16v). The schematic has a misprint and lists it as a 100uf 16v but thepart on the board is a 1000uf 16v. Power supply voltages will appearnormal in this situation but it will force IC901 to hold pin 8 low(Emergency STOP) causing all the CPUs to be held in reset causing aDEAD Unit.


While I was waiting for some other suggestions for sh*&'s and gigles I looked for the c903 cap and BAMMMM, you could see the innards oozing out of the bottom.  I didn't have the exact replacement on hand, but was told here that the 16v1200uF would be fine. So far so good.

THANKS for the GREAT info, just in time!  



I am glad I could help!!!!! The 16v1200uf cap should work fine!
I hope you checked some of the other things I posted, mainly the solder connections. That way you can avoid some of the more expensive repairs.
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by ball » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:29 pm

Hey greedj, I hope you're subscribed to this thread.

I have an opportunity to buy a STR DA333ES which I'm considering for an oddball car audio setup. Basically, I'll have a left-facing 5.1 stereo in the rear which doubles as the rear speakers when driving. The key is using a preamp (or, amp in this case) with 5.1 passthrough, so I can wire the rear and fronts as lefts and rights respectively. Another plus of this unit is it automatically uses digital when it senses it, so switching between the two would be a snap.

Anyway, instead of a preamp, I could possibly use this as an amp, but I don't know:

a) If the PSU could be replaced with something 12v based (could get an inverter). I'm no stranger to electronics, but since you've already peeked inside one

b) How many watts would it drain with said inverter (I have an 800w constant draw one which sounds sufficient)

c) How the amp would behave connected to car speakers, which have 1/2 to 1/4 the resistance (ohms). With most amps I just lower the volume and increase the airflow, but this could be pushing it if this amp already gets hot.

Thanks for any insight!
ball
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by greedj » Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:10 am


On 2009-04-28 03:29, ball wrote:
Hey greedj, I hope you're subscribed to this thread.

I have an opportunity to buy a STR DA333ES which I'm considering for an oddball car audio setup. Basically, I'll have a left-facing 5.1 stereo in the rear which doubles as the rear speakers when driving. The key is using a preamp (or, amp in this case) with 5.1 passthrough, so I can wire the rear and fronts as lefts and rights respectively. Another plus of this unit is it automatically uses digital when it senses it, so switching between the two would be a snap.

Anyway, instead of a preamp, I could possibly use this as an amp, but I don't know:

a) If the PSU could be replaced with something 12v based (could get an inverter). I'm no stranger to electronics, but since you've already peeked inside one

b) How many watts would it drain with said inverter (I have an 800w constant draw one which sounds sufficient)

c) How the amp would behave connected to car speakers, which have 1/2 to 1/4 the resistance (ohms). With most amps I just lower the volume and increase the airflow, but this could be pushing it if this amp already gets hot.

Thanks for any insight!


All this seems a little nuts but it also sounds like something I would do .

Replacing the PSU is probably not a cost effective option. It would require re-engineering and parts.

You inverter is not big enough (<--sorry guy ) to run as an amp but it might be good if only used as a preamp.

If you add a 3" 800-1500rpn fan to the case, you should stay cool. Speaker load does not affect a preamp.
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by Sonykuma » Mon Jul 20, 2009 7:45 am

Anyone with a possible retail source for IC501, IC601, and IC701?  Is this a proprietary chip and are they all the same chip?
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by greedj » Wed May 18, 2016 9:08 pm

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