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View topic - Self Install Sony Optical Block

Self Install Sony Optical Block

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by claudio » Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:54 pm

This is thread is for people who have optical block issues and are outside of the extended Sony Warranty.  Some Sony TV are still within the warranty periods so please call Sony to get an authorized Sony repair shop to look at your television

Unfortunately, Sony extended warranty for the blob described in Agoraquest Sony Alert at


has expired for most people.

The warranty expired on December 31, 2008. Now as the date has passed more and more people are getting this issue and have tried contacting Sony to fix the issue.  There are several threads on this Blue blob issue and Agoraquest members trying to get Sony to fix the issue.

One of the threads is


So I saw that Sony has available the Optical Block part to buy and install. Obvious this is not the prefect solution since the Optical Block is pretty expensive. But I guess it beats tossing the TV in the garbage.

So below is all the data I found on this issue

Also, please note this is an optical block for KDS - R60XBR1 though each Sony model like 50We610 and so forth have an optical block part.

The Sony Optical Block is
Part Number:  A1127174A

is available to buy on


for $674.68 and is in stock

Part (optical block assembly) is warranteed for 2 years,

I saw this in a forum on experience on replacing the optical block. I would say maybe medium experience necessary to do this

"I basically had the guts of the set all out ove rmy carpet but the only thing you really need is a 10" LONGGG PHILLIPS HEAD, some common sences (take pictures as you go or just mark each connector as you disconnect them in order to get the $%$E%#%# block out, but just be gentle and take you time and you'll get there. I beleive my set may be amoung the most complicated to switch out blocks on... and I have about 25 photos showing practically every step. You definitly need some balls to do it but its really not that bad. If you can switch out a hard drive or power supply in a PC you can do this.... "

What you need.

1. Get the correct Optical Part for you specific Sony Model (Specific Part is located at the bottom of this post)
2. 10" Long Phillips Head
3. A service manual for you specific Sony model is recommended. For Agoraquest premium members we provided this. If you are interesting in upgrading you

This will void your warranty
Please remember to take pictures of items you remove so if needed you can put it back together like it was.

Below is a user's comments on installing an Optical Block.
The block comes in a box the size of a small TV -- and it is large itself. To replace this you need to:

Remove the rear panel of the TV .

Remove the "A" Block which is where all your A/V cables plug in

Remove the DC fan on the right side.

Remove a structural brace in the back-center.

Remove the "G1" Board . TAKE A PICTURE OF THIS BEFORE YOU DISCONNECT THE JUMPERs. There are 12 or more jumpers on this board, and some can be plug into the wrong slots [lesson learned - I goofed on this and had to buy a new board at $44].

Remove an additional structural brace.

Now you can pull the optical block. I would recommend you remove the bulb from the front -- the plug that the bulb assembly 'plugs' into has to be unscrewed and re-attached to the new block. There are also very thin, fragile looking wire lead assemblies that lead to the optical block -- these appear to run the LCD Panels.

Re-assembly is the reverse of the above.

In addition to the block you received a new "C" assembly. This appears to have the circuits that drive the LCDs. I don't know if I had to replace this, but I did. This goes onto the "A" Assembly - and its R&R is pretty obvious when you look at it and the "A" Assembly.

I would recommend you purchase the service manual for the appropriate TV [you can find these online for less than $10 downloaded as a PDF]. This has some limited instructions on how this all goes together; and lots of diagrams on the composition of each board. It also contains instructions on the on-screen troubleshooting screens. Lastly and most important it has the part numbers listed for all the stuff, and you need those part numbers to ensure proper orders from the parts store.

I found great information courtesy of Steve Linke which has pictures and has more details.

If you have any feedback on these pages, you can e-mail me at "sonybluehaze at gmail dot com".


The procedure described below is not 100% complete, and it applies specifically to the KDF-55WF655. Related models should be similar, but they are not identical. A few instructions and pictures describing access to the optical block on a KF-50WE610 can be found here: Set 1 and Set 2

Attempting the following should probably be reserved for those experienced with such procedures. You will have to decide whether you are capable of doing it. And you are doing it at your own risk, as it could result in damage to your TV, and, although unlikely, injury to yourself. It will likely void any warranty you might have left, if any.

To help ensure a smooth re-assembly at the end, you should carefully label all electrical connections, including orientation of wires in the connectors (e.g., label both sides with tape). You should also carefully note which screws are used to attach specific components.

Plastic cover removal

Unplug the TV and remove the lower plastic cover on the back of the TV by removing all of the screws with arrows pointing at them (9 around perimeter and 4 within the audio/video connection unit on the KDF-55WF655).

Two examples of perimeter screws with arrows pointing at them (screws removed):

Audio/video connection unit screws with arrows pointing at them:

Plastic cover removed. From left to right, note (1) the audio/video connection unit, (2) the large metal plate in front of the optical block, (3) the lamp cooling fan, and (4) the sub-woofer. Some models have a somewhat different configuration and may not have a sub-woofer:

Metal plate removal

Disconnect the ground wire from the top of the large lamp-cooling fan on the right. Remove the grounding block with two ground wires from the large metal plate by removing the screw (one ground is the one you just disconnected from the large fan on right and the other goes to the audio/video unit on left). Set the ground wires aside.

Remove the five screws with arrows pointing to them from the large metal plate. Note that the middle screw goes into the fan housing which must be lined up properly when reinstalling. Remove the metal plate by sliding it outwards. There is an optical block mounting/support guide at the bottom of the metal plate (see the two screws in the smaller metal plate at bottom of the large metal plate) that needs to slide in a slot and then be lifted out.

Lamp Cooling Fan Removal

Remove an additional screw at the bottom of the fan to enable removal of the fan.

To complete removal of the lamp cooling fan, remove the fan wires from the wire holders (black, yellow, and red) and disconnect it at the connector. There is a small black wire wrapped around a post, and there is a bundle of wires taped with black tape on the housing of a smaller centrifugal fan on the top right of the optical block (adjacent to the projection lamp). Carefully detach these wires. Finally, slide the lamp cooling fan housing outwards.

Picture of the large metal plate (removed):

The following photo is of the back of the TV with the large metal plate and lamp cooling fan/housing removed. Note the screw at the bottom middle of the photo. This is the second one that needs to be removed to release the fan housing. The optical block is the large unit between the audio/video connection unit on the left and the sub-woofer on the right with the green electronics board attached. On the right side of the optical block is the projection lamp and housing. You will need to remove the wires running horizontally over the optical block from their wiring harnesses attached to the optical block:

Picture of lamp cooling fan/housing (removed):

Audio/video connection unit removal

Remove the screw at the top of the metal support beam to left of audio/video connection unit and remove the beam. The audio/video connection unit is not secured to the TV, so it should slide outwards, perhaps with some minor lifting. The main thing is to monitor the wires. You will need to remove some wires from their harnesses attached to the TV housing as you slide the unit out. You only need to slide it out far enough to gain access to the optical block:

Sub-woofer Removal

If you have a sub-woofer, you may want to remove it to provide better access to the optical block, although I do not know whether this is necessary. Disconnect the wire connector (gray and blue), noting the orientation of the connector. Remove the four brass-colored screws and pull the speaker outwards off the rubber shock-absorbing mounts. The following photo shows the back of the TV with the sub-woofer removed (the projection lamp area of the optical block is seen on the left):

There is a sled-like support under the projection lamp area of the optical block. It can removed by removing two screws. One on the left is shown in this photo (there is also one on the right):

This photo shows the "sled" removed and (sitting at the lower right of photo). Note that the optical block is also removed in this photo (projection lamp housing visible at the lower left of photo):

Optical Block Removal

There are two screws securing the optical block to the TV housing that are somewhat difficult to access. The following photo shows one of these screws quite a distance in from a semi-circular slot in the black plastic that allows access with a long-shafted screwdriver (a conventional length screwdriver will not be sufficient). Remove both of these screws. There may be one or two other screws securing the optical block, but they should be more obvious and accessible, if they exist. Slide the optical block out.

Optical block cleaning (for purple/pink "fingerprints")

The black LCD panel cover can now be removed from the optical block to expose the panels themselves. It is very unclear how best to clean the interior of the optical block. In theory, blowing compressed air over the LCD panels and other internal parts could clear away dust. In addition, the glass on the projection lens could be cleaned with lens paper and solution. Aerosol (canned) air is not recommended, as it can come out very cold and/or spray moisture, so extreme care should be exercised when using it. Do this at your own risk. However, there have been a few reports of this procedure removing the vast majority, although not all, of the "fingerprints" from the image.

Optical block disassembly

When problems are diagnosed with optical blocks, they are typically replaced in their entirety--even by trained technicians. However, Paul Patience completely dismantled the optical block on his KF-42WE620 to enable a more thorough cleaning, and he posted a description and pictures of the process on his Sony LCD Projection TV Cleaning Instructions web site. He describes accessing and cleaning the individual LCD panels, prisms, mirrors, and filters inside the optical block. I would view this as a very risky venture that is likely to lead to damage or image misalignment, but it is quite interesting nonetheless. I would also speculate that this cleaning process will only help in the case of the "fingerprint"-like dust contamination issue, as the other known issues with the optical blocks most likely arise from defective or damaged parts, which cannot be rectified through cleaning.

Pictures of disassembled optical block on KDF-55XS955 (courtesy of Bob Scott)

Optical block replacement
You will likely have to remove some parts from the old optical block and attach them to the replacement block. In particular, this includes the main electronics board (lamp driver) attached to the back edge and the projection lamp and housing. Compare the blocks and transfer anything that is missing from the new one. Finally, replace everything in the reverse order indicated above.

When replacing the optical block, make sure the screws are secure. The alignment of the block will affect the alignment of the picture. If it is not tight up against the foam gasket on the TV housing, the picture may be crooked. Small adjustments can be made electronically to adjust this, but you will want it to be as good as possible.

Picture of replacement optical block for KF-60WE610 (courtesy John Setar)

Here is a picture of a replacement optical block for the KF-60WE610. Note that some parts of the old optical block need to be removed and installed on the replacement block.

The following two pictures show a replacement board that also needs to be installed on some models (including at least some KF-60WE610's). Note that this board is installed in a different part of the TV (probably near the audio-video unit/chassis), and that many models do not require this separate board.

Optical block part numbers

The following table indicates the optical block part number for the indicated models. The ones in parentheses refer to old part numbers that have been replaced. The accuracy of this table is not guaranteed. Please verify the accuracy of the part numbers before ordering.

2003 Grand WEGA
KF42WE610 = A1606006A (A1606033A)
KF50WE610 = A1606008A (A1606035A)
KF60WE610 = A1606010A (A1606036A)
KDF60XBR950 = A1606041A (A1606042A)
KDF70XBR950 = A1606039A (A1606040A)

2004 Grand WEGA
KDF42WE655 = A1084658A (A1056437A)
KDF50WE655 = A1084660A (A1057972A)
KDF55WF655 = A1084662A (A1060807A)
KDF60WF655 = A1084664A (A1061049A)
KDF55XS955 = A1084666A (A1061489A)
KDF-60XS955 = A1084668A (A1061404A)
KF42WE620 = A1086496A
KF50WE620 = A1086497A

KDS-R50XBR1 = A1168495A (A1148155A)
KDS-R60XBR1 = A1168494A (A1127174A)

A company called Tri-State Module in Evansville, Indiana seems to be one of a very few places that repairs (rebuilds) the optical blocks. They apparently will exchange your used optical block for a rebuilt one for about $380, or you can buy a rebuilt one without an exchange for about $600. The replacements apparently have a 6-month warranty. Representatives there would not divulge what specific parts of the optical block had to be replaced most often during the rebuilds. Also, if Sony has re-engineered their replacement optical blocks (unknown), it is unknown whether the rebuilds include any improvements.

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