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Agoraquest • View topic - Stand for 2 channel audio

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View topic - Stand for 2 channel audio

Stand for 2 channel audio

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by David_S » Sun Feb 27, 2011 9:42 pm


On 2011-02-27 16:40, jttar wrote:
Hello David,

Real nice and clever design, looks fantastic and will support the weight of a small building!!

As you can tell by the number of views, we are watching with great interest. Again, thanks.

Joe

I do not like flimsy items that prematurely fall apart.

I also wondered if it was woth the effort to start this thread before it's first posting.  A few other Agoraquest members had previously mentioned about not finding a stand that suited them.  Maybe this information will help inspire others.

My "shop" is my single car garage.  The tools required for what I have done here are nothing exotic or massively expensive that are outside the league of a home woodworking hobbiest.

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by David_S » Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:09 pm

Detail of how shelf spacers are attached.

The threaded rods & dowels go through holes in the shelf.  They are glued into tops the lower spacers.  The bottom ends for the next layer of round pieces are screwed onto the threaded rods.  The bottom ends are not glued, this allows for disassembly.  The bottom end of the flat board is also not glued onto the dowels from the lower spacer.

The 2 screws between the dowels go through the shelf into the lower spacer.  The diagonal screws come up through the shelf into the upper spacer.  Pilot holes are drilled to prevent cracking.

The dowel ends are tapered for easier assembly.


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by mhedges » Wed Mar 02, 2011 3:55 am


On 2011-03-02 02:09, David_S wrote:
Detail of how shelf spacers are attached.

The threaded rods & dowels go through holes in the shelf.  They are glued into tops the lower spacers.  The bottom ends for the next layer of round pieces are screwed onto the threaded rods.  The bottom ends are not glued, this allows for disassembly.  The bottom end of the flat board is also not glued onto the dowels from the lower spacer.

The 2 screws between the dowels go through the shelf into the lower spacer.  The diagonal screws come up through the shelf into the upper spacer.  Pilot holes are drilled to prevent cracking.

The dowel ends are tapered for easier assembly.





Interesting.  I have a rack that uses 4 long one piece threaded rods (one through each corner).  The shelves are separated by hollow tubes that the rod goes through.  Then the whole thing is made secure by tightening decorative nuts on the top and bottom.

I don't mean to be critical but it seems like your design does not have a lot of strength in tension - meaning you would not want to pick it up by the top shelf.  But you have those nice casters so I guess you should never have to pick it up that way.

mark
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by David_S » Wed Mar 02, 2011 5:19 am


On 2011-03-02 07:55, mhedges wrote:
...I don't mean to be critical but it seems like your design does not have a lot of strength in tension - meaning you would not want to pick it up by the top shelf.  But you have those nice casters so I guess you should never have to pick it up that way.

mark

That is a good point, but lifting the stand while it is loaded has not been a concern.  The castors do overcome that need.

I might do a test to see what vertical pull the non-glued ends ot the threaded rods can withstand.  I have some round stock & threaded rod left over.

I did consider continuous top to bottom rods but thought it difficult to work into the design I wanted.  I did not overlook the risk of picking the loaded stand up by the top shelf.  Not mentioning this risk was an oversight.

The stand is now 90% constructed and is very solid.  The four full height cable management boards are still not attached to the back of the stand.  They will add more strength and stability to the stand.
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by parney » Wed Mar 02, 2011 10:35 am

Looks like a nice solid build to me I wouldn't be concerned about lifting it by top shelf.How often would you want to lift this anyway only if you were moving.Besides your supposed to lift things with your legs not your back so just grab it down by the castors if needed.It looks alot more sturdy than the mass produced crap thats made in China that you'll find in stores.
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by Skytrooper » Thu Mar 03, 2011 4:45 pm

Just started reading your thread today. Great job. Finding a stand to meet your needs can be difficult. You went about it the right way. You will have something that you will enjoy for many years to come.
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by David_S » Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:15 pm

This is the list of power tools used for making the stand.

Drill press.

I have a floor standing drill press, but a bench mount drill press would also do the job for this project.  This is required for accurately drilling holes that are perpendicular to the stock.

Power mitre saw.

A radial arm saw is great if you have it & some newer power miter saws are a lot fancier than this saw, but this saw was adequate for the job.  Length accuracy is very important for the spacers between the shelves.  I clamped an extension onto the fence.  The extension was long enough to clamp an end stop for the shelf spacers.  The end stop made accurate length matched sets of shelf spacers an easy process.

Hand held drill and sabre saw.

The hand held variable speed drill was mostly used for drilling the pilot holes screws threaded into.  The drill was also used with a driver bit to insert some of the screws.  Most of the holes that screws went through were made with the drill press.  The sabre saw cut
radius measured curves off the front corners of the shelves.

Belt sander and orbital sander.

The belt sander smoothed the curves that were cut by the sabre saw.  The orbital sander sanded the shelves and flat boards down to "paint ready" stage.  The orbital sander is a 1/2 sheet size, 10,000 orbit/minute model.  It is an industrial level unit, I can put most of my weight onto the orbital sander without stalling it out.

Air powered pinner.

I used this because I have it, and it made life easier.  The maximum pin size this uses is about 1/32" diameter and 1" long.  I used this to pin the mitred front corners of the boards that conceal the castors.  This was much easier than using a hammer & finish nails or small screws.  Power driven pins or nails also have a lower risk of cracking the wood.


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by David_S » Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:10 pm

Finally, finished after about 75 hours labour.


The lower ends of the cable management boards protrudes 1" below the underside of the bottom shelf.  These aluminum brackets add a little extra strength.

Back view.

Two cable management columns for each equipment stack make separation of AC power cords from audio signal cords easy.  This helps lower noise interference from the AC power cords.


The vertical cable management boards help support the horizontal board on the top shelf.




Height between shelves, bottom to top.  8 1/2", 8 1/8", 8 1/8", 6 3/4"
The upper surface of the top shelf is 38 1/4" high.  Shelf size 20" x 48".



7 coats of paint on the top shelf.  The 7th coat is an improvement over the 6th coat.

DVP-S9000ES & DVPNS999ES for size visualization.






There is still more to do.  Interconnects, speaker cables & power management

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by parney » Wed Mar 09, 2011 2:40 am

Fantastic job I really like your design very well thought out.I might try and build one this summer your project is a great inspiration you shoul be proud of yourself.Just one question did you use a router to finish the edges of the shelves?
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by jttar » Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:28 pm

David,

What a fun thread this is. A real pleasure watching the progress and the finished product is absolutely stunning.

You have mine and many others respect, admiration and most of all thanks for including us in your project. Can't wait to see it filled with components.

Joe
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